Jo Pithon sells his domaine – Clos des Treilles – to Ivan Massonnat

Isabelle and Jo Pithon @ time of launch of Pithon-Paillé

2009 Salon des Vins de Loire 

Isabelle and Jo are on the right

La Revue du Vin de France reports that Jo Pithon has sold his domaine, which includes the steep sided Clos des Treilles overlooking the River Layon to 46-year-old Ivan Massonnat, a financier who is understood to be devoted fan of Chenin Blanc. 

Jo rescued and replanted the Clos, which is on the north bank of the Layon in the commune of Beaulieu-sur-Layon, with Chenin Blanc and made a number of very fine vintages of dry Chenin from this special site. 

In addition to acquiring Jo and Isabelle's domaine LARVF reports that Massonat has acquired a total of 10 hectares of Quarts de Chaume, which makes him the appellation's largest owner with some 25% of the appellation. This is includes the 0.22 hectares of Quarts de Chaume held by Jo Pithon with the rest bought by Massonnat from Pascal Laffourcade.  

LARVF reports that Massonnat is now looking for someone to run his new domaine for him. 

It is good news that Jo Pithon has sold his domaine, which will allow Jo to retire, and will mean that both the Clos des Treilles will continue and that there is the potential for some very good Quarts de Chaume to be made. 

Read the rest of the LARVF report here.  

 Les Treilles from south bank of Layon

Les Treilles Vertical 2013-2005: Pithon-Paille@Salon des Vins de Loire 2014

@Les Treilles Vertical: Chris Kissack and Wendy Paillé 

+ diagram of Les Treilles

On Tuesday 4th February I was fortunate enough to be invited to a full vertical of Les Treilles – the Anjou Blanc (100% Chenin Blanc) from the vineyard planted on very steep slopes overlooking the Layon in the commune of Beaulieu. The vineyard was gradullay replanted from 2000 after being abandoned after the Second World War as it was too steep (between 30%-70%) to be easily worked. See details here.   
2013 (brut): complete baby – attractive texture, apple and grapefruit.
2012 (still in vat): Looking promising, although still quite yeasty but with attractive texture and good acidity in the finish.
2011 now in bottle: Honeysuckle aromas, honeycomb, quince, back bone of acidity, still decidedly young. Will develop.
2010: One of the stars of the vertical underlining what a good vintage 2010 is for both dry and sweet Loire whites. Light gold, a touch of honey, beginning to evolve and develop increased complexity. Again a backbone of fine acidity and overall a lovely balance of fruit and acidity with very good length. Fine!
2009: Mid-yellow to light gold, more evolved than the 2010 but with more weight from a hotter year, some acidity but the 2009 is less vibrant than the 2010.
2008: Light gold, some honeyed aromas, A leaner and tighter style than the 2009 but lovely balance and length. One of my favourites.
2007: Light gold, very clean, precise and vibrant. Less concentration than the 2008 and, especially, the 2009 but has a lovely delicacy and length.
2006: Marked jump here in evolution with some aging oxidation, rich fruit reflecting year and a little flat lacking some vibrancy.   
2005: The first year of Les Treilles. Quite full, opulent fruit and texture but with good acidity, complexity in the finish but a different style and less impressive in comparison with 2010, 2008 and 2007.

However, I recently drank a bottle of the 2005 in isolation and was thoroughly pleased with it – its concentration and evolution – so I’m pleased I still have a bottle or two left. It also, of course, depends on what dishes you are intending to have with these wines.

Once again in this vertical I have preferred the wines from the less sunny years – 2010, 2008 and 2007 – but with fine spells during the autumn. This was a fascinating tasting of a top quality Anjou Blanc, showing not only the potential of Les Treilles but also that of Anjou Blanc when it is made with ambition and care. Decidedly useful in terms of the now burgeoning discussion around the possibility of creating a Chaume sec appellation. 

A tractor on Les Treilles