Touraine producer becomes general secretary of AREV: an interview (part two)

Aynard de Clermont-Tonnerre

general secretary of AREV

Aynard took up his new post on Monday 1st June. This is the second part of my interview with him. The first part is here. 

In the first part we talked about how the AREV works along with its successes, strengths and weaknesses. This second part covers the current and future agenda.

Coronavirus

Naturally the effects of the coronavirus crisis is at the top of the agenda.

Aynard:

"We have and are pushing for plantation rights for 2020 to be held over into 2021. Also for permission for vineyard workers from countries like Romania to travel.

The virus, along with the 25% tax imposed by Trump on wine imports into the US, has disrupted and destablised the wine economy we need measures to allow distillation of excess stock so that producers have enough capacity for accommodating the forthcoming 2020 vintage. We think some two to three million hectolitres should be distilled. We are looking for 80€ per hectolitre for appellation wines (AC, DOC, DOCG etc.), 65€ per hl for IGP and 50€ for Vin de France or its equivalent in other European countries. Given the importance of wine in countries like France, Spain and Italy etc. the EU is not providing the wine industry enough money to come through this crisis.

Distillation isn't, however, the sole answer. We need to look at making wine, which is made for immediate consumption to last longer. This can be done by looking at the process of wine-making – maturation and bottling later. This is something, for instance, that Touraine Oisly producer and member of InterLoire, Lionel Gosseaume, is looking to do this for Touraine Sauvignon. Making wines for immediate consumption last longer will give producers more time to sell their wines before they deteriorate."    

Labelling

Putting the add the ingredients and any additives in wine on the label has been controversial with many wondering why if all the ingredients in processed food are listed why not the same for wine.

Aynard:

"It is a question of the best way to do this, which is a long process. We think that it is the actual ingredients in the finished and bottled wine that should be on bottles and listed on the back label." 

Jim: However, this is not going to satisfy vegetarians and vegans, who will want to know whether animal products have been used in the wine-making, for instance in clarification.

Harmonising organic wine certification and defining natural wine
Aynard:

"AREV is involved in the discussions on achieving an agreed organic and bio-dynamic certifications that covers all of Europe and in time the United States, so avoiding a multiplicity of certification. Similarly there are currently no Pan-European vegan rules. Nor any real legal definition of natural wine. AREV can help to find solutions to achieve agreement.   

Climate change and the environment
Aynard:

"Clearly we are and will be working to see how the wine industry copes with the effects and implications of climate change. Also regarding the environment reducing the use of pesticides is another item on the agenda. This is taking longer than expected. We are very firmly against the use of GM vines. However, there are other techniques, such as resistant hybrids, emerging that are more respectful of nature that could be interesting."

Being general secretary of AREV must be a challenging and fascinating role at the best of times:  liaising with wine producers and wine organisations across Europe and at the time making sure that Europe's wine voice is heard and listened to in Brussels. Covid-19 makes this even more challenging.       

Touraine producer becomes general secretary of AREV: an interview (part one)

Aynard de Clermont-Tonnerre

the new general-secretary of AREV 

The wine lobbying body Assemblée des Régions Européennes Viticoles (AREV) has a new secretary general: Aynard de Clermont-Tonnerre. Aynard initially took up the post of Deputy General Secretary on 1st April 2020 and on Monday 1st June he became the current Secretary General when his predecessor Alain d'Anselme retired.

Aynard and his wife Isabelle own the Clos du Porteau in the hamlet of La Vallée Pitrou in Saints-Georges-sur-Cher (Loir et Cher). I first visited them in March 2009 when Aynard was still working for a German bank. He was one of the casualties of the 2008 financial crash: informed in the modern manner by email that his job was no more while promoting his wine at the London Wine Trade Fair at London's ExCeL Centre. Aynard then had a period as export manager for Ampelidae in Haut-Poitou before becoming in charge of export for Vignobles Austruy with estates in Provence (Commanderie de Peyrassol), Bordeaux (Château de Malescasse), Tuscany (Tenuta Casenuove) and the Douro (Quinta da Côrte). 

Now Aynard has an exciting new challenge running AREV, which was founded on the 20th June 1988. The organisation represents wine producers and the wine trade across the EU. 

Last Thursday (28th May) I cycled the short distance to the Clos du Porteau to ask Aynard about the AREV and his new role.

What is the role of the AREV?

Aynard: "It was founded 30 years ago and it provides the wine producing regions with a voice to the European Commission and the European Parliament as well as countries outside like the United States, for example. We examine and explain the consequences of proposed political measures and political decisions. There is a danger that wine producers can be forgotten. For example all the CAP subsidies used to go other sectors of agriculture with grain and animal husbandry prioritised.

There was no reason why wine producers should have been excluded. From 2015, through the efforts of AREV, a small proportion of the CAP budget has gone to wine growers, who get a grant of 30% towards investment in equipment – new presses, a new tractor, for example – with the producer finding 70% of the cost. Being able to invest in new equipment is particularly important for small producers, who will never be profitable if they do not invest in new equipment. These grants have made a big difference in countries like Spain and Portugal. 

Each CAP budget runs for six years – the new budget will run from 2021 to 2027.  

One example of a successful AREV campaign was in opposing the liberalisation of vine planting rights. When the current EU trade commissioner, Phil Hogan, was the EU commissioner for agriculture and rural development he wanted to abolish plantation rights and to have no limit on vine plantings and no limit on where they could be planted. This the AREV believed would lead to hyper-capitalism with huge plantings in valley floors leading to low quality wine sold for low prices, which would have had a catastrophic effect on the appellation system and would have destablised the wine trade. 

Using their three analysts, who are based in Brussels, AREV showed the likely consequences, including the social ones, of complete abolition. Hogan was persuaded to pull back, which saved the fate of the European wine business.

The AREV, which has no political colour, makes sure that the European wine industry's views on policies like the Farm to Forks Strategy are put to Brussels both to the EU Commission and to the Parliament. This is done through consultations and contact with the 27 countries in AREV that represent 50 wine producing regions. 

In the Loire, example, the AREV is in contact with the regional governments – Pays de la Loire and Centre Val de Loire – as well as the regions' wine organisations – InterLoire and the BIVC (Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins du Centre).  

It is crucial that the importance of the wine industry is not under-estimated:  economically, socially and environmentally.       

AREV: weakness?

Aynard: There has been a certain loss of momentum over the last ten years due to internal French disagreements, which have now been resolved through retirement. We are now a team of five full timers including three analysts plus a part-time secretary. We will have a new website by the end of June. The current one is outdated and not fit for purchase. It is better to have a site that works properly even if it only has a couple of pages and it has to be easy to navigate.  

••

Clos de Porteau   

Aynard and Isabelle have been joined by their daughter Hermine at the Clos du Porteau. As a winemaker she has worked for Champagne Gosset and the Commanderie de Peyrassol. Given the demands of Aynard's new post she will be taking the leading role at Porteau. The domaine currently has 12 hectares in production, and is looking to increase to 20 hectares through replanting as well as looking for vines to rent or buy in Montlouis.

The domaine is in conversion to organic viticulture. Hermine is keen to make changes so there will be some orange wine, petnat and some wines without sulphur, especially the Gamay. All the reds will be picked into small boxes. Gravity will be used in the winery with pumps banned and the reds will be made in untreated concrete tanks with their slow air transmission in preference to stainless steel tanks. 

•••

Interview Part 2 will include measures needed following COVID-19, harmonisation of organic wine certification across the EU, labeling etc.      

 

     

Emerging from social confinement...

Aynard de Clermont-Tonnerre, the new general secretary of AREV  

After weeks of no social interaction with friends during France's strict lockdown, we welcomed our first two guests to have passed our front gate since early March last Thursday for an apéro à distance sociale.

Fortunately it was a lovely warm evening and we sat outside in the garden, while maintaining a social distance with no handshakes or embraces, of course.  Our two guests were Aynard and Isabelle de Clermont-Tonnerre of Clos du Porteau in nearby Saint-Georges-sur-Cher.

It turned out to be a double celebration – not just for a restrained lifting of social confinement but also an unexpected celebration of Aynard's important new job as general secretary of AREV: the Assemblée des régions européennes viticoles. Aynard took up the initial post as Deputy General Secretary on 1st April. On Monday (1st June) he will take over as General Secretary when the current holder – Alain d'Anselme – retires. 

Aynard is naturally delighted and excited by his new job, which in normal times would be a challenge but it will be made all the more challenging by COVID-19. There will be a a full interview with Aynard soon.

I had decided that for our apéro evening would be restricted to white wine and would feature a trio of wines from Jacky Blot – all from Montlouis.

Triple Zéro, Montlouis, La Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot

This bottle had considerable bottle age as the cork remained in its tight mushroom form without splaying out. Along with many Loires, well made sparkling wines – Triple Zéro is a pétillant – have the potential to age well if you can resist opening them when they are young. Thursday's Triple Zéro had retained its purity and freshness along with a developed honeyed complexity. A perfect start for our double celebration.

 

2012 Rémus Plus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 

2005 Rémus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 

We followed the Triple Zéro with a duo of Rémus – the 2005 was a straight Rémus, while the 2012 was a Rémus Plus: a more severe selection than Rémus and from vines aged between 80 and 100 years old. This was also a contrast of vintages. 2005 had a long hot dry summer with fine weather continuing into the autumn. In contrast 2012 was a more difficult year, although bud-break was early, the vines were badly hit by an April frost on the night 16th-17th April. There was heavy and continuous rain from early October.

The 2005 was noticeably richer than 2012 and naturally more evolved but still with good freshness in the finish, while the 2012 was tighter, very clean and precise with an attractive austerity in the long finish with a clear potential to evolve and age for a long time yet. The majority preferred the 2005, while I had a slight preference for the 2012. Both fine wines with differences that reflect the different ages and climatic differences of these two vintages.