Meeting Charles-Eric Pasquiers of Domaine FL@Millésime Bio

 Charles-Eric Pasquiers, general manager, Domaine FL

With his commercial assistant

Although by chance I bumped into Charles-Eric Pasquiers  in the lift of the Hotel Oceania in the centre of Montpellier where we were both staying latish on Monday, my first proper meeting with him and chance to catch up on the FL wines was on the Tuesday afternoon at Millesimé Bio. 

Pasquiers has a considerable CV having worked for Bernard Magrez, Château Figeac and Brown Brothers in Australia before arriving at Domaine FL in December 2011. Pasquiers explained that FL are analysing their parcels and deciding which are suitable for the domaine wine and which will for the second wine.

I started with the 2012 Le Chenin La Tour de FL, Anjou Blanc - the second wine. Clean with attractive concentration and a characteristic touch of bitterness in the finish. It sells for between 5-6€. Next was the well-balanced and stylish 2010 Les Bergères Anjou Blanc. This domaine wine sells for around €10.

Pasquiers explained that FL currently has 30 ha with 15 hectares in Savennieres and the intention is to increase that to 25 hectares in the future. Overall FL will potentially come up to 50 ha.The vineyards for Anjou Blanc will be reduced to 12 hectares and they will focus on Cabernet Franc.

Of the four Savennières I tasted I particularly liked the precise and long 2009 Croix Picot, while the two 2012s Croix Picot and Chamboreau are still obviously young but looking promising. For the 2013 Chamboreau harvest they went through the vineyard three times. I also tried the Anjou Rouge - 100% Cabernet Franc and liked the soft and attractively textured 2012 Le Cochet.

We ended by talking a little about the Quarts de Chaume. Along with most other producers FL made none in 2012 and very little in 2013 - four hectolitres. Pasquiers expressed surprise that cryoselection was considered in the Quarts de Chaume as he said it was no longer used in Bordeaux. (I'm not entirely sure that cryoselection isn't still used in some Sauternes domaines especially in difficult vintages.) 

 The lift@the Hotel Oceania, Montpellier

Les Treilles Vertical 2013-2005: Pithon-Paille@Salon des Vins de Loire 2014

@Les Treilles Vertical: Chris Kissack and Wendy Paillé 

+ diagram of Les Treilles

On Tuesday 4th February I was fortunate enough to be invited to a full vertical of Les Treilles – the Anjou Blanc (100% Chenin Blanc) from the vineyard planted on very steep slopes overlooking the Layon in the commune of Beaulieu. The vineyard was gradullay replanted from 2000 after being abandoned after the Second World War as it was too steep (between 30%-70%) to be easily worked. See details here.   
2013 (brut): complete baby – attractive texture, apple and grapefruit.
2012 (still in vat): Looking promising, although still quite yeasty but with attractive texture and good acidity in the finish.
2011 now in bottle: Honeysuckle aromas, honeycomb, quince, back bone of acidity, still decidedly young. Will develop.
2010: One of the stars of the vertical underlining what a good vintage 2010 is for both dry and sweet Loire whites. Light gold, a touch of honey, beginning to evolve and develop increased complexity. Again a backbone of fine acidity and overall a lovely balance of fruit and acidity with very good length. Fine!
2009: Mid-yellow to light gold, more evolved than the 2010 but with more weight from a hotter year, some acidity but the 2009 is less vibrant than the 2010.
2008: Light gold, some honeyed aromas, A leaner and tighter style than the 2009 but lovely balance and length. One of my favourites.
2007: Light gold, very clean, precise and vibrant. Less concentration than the 2008 and, especially, the 2009 but has a lovely delicacy and length.
2006: Marked jump here in evolution with some aging oxidation, rich fruit reflecting year and a little flat lacking some vibrancy.   
2005: The first year of Les Treilles. Quite full, opulent fruit and texture but with good acidity, complexity in the finish but a different style and less impressive in comparison with 2010, 2008 and 2007.

However, I recently drank a bottle of the 2005 in isolation and was thoroughly pleased with it – its concentration and evolution – so I’m pleased I still have a bottle or two left. It also, of course, depends on what dishes you are intending to have with these wines.

Once again in this vertical I have preferred the wines from the less sunny years – 2010, 2008 and 2007 – but with fine spells during the autumn. This was a fascinating tasting of a top quality Anjou Blanc, showing not only the potential of Les Treilles but also that of Anjou Blanc when it is made with ambition and care. Decidedly useful in terms of the now burgeoning discussion around the possibility of creating a Chaume sec appellation. 

A tractor on Les Treilles

Les Delesvaux shine@Le Relais

2008 Feuille d'Or, Anjou Blanc

Last evening we enjoyed a very good dinner at the always reliable Le Relais in rain-sodden Angers. The owner Gérard Pelletier was as relaxed as we have seen him for some time and on good form as was Christophe Noël in the kitchen. 

We were very impressed with the two wines we chose from Domaine Philippe Delesvaux. The bone-dry 2008 Feuille d’Or, Anjou Blanc – 100% Chenin – made a fine aperitif and particularly appreciated after our very early start from the UK and drive through the rain to Angers. Latter vintages of Feuille d’Or have been sec tendre but the 2008 has a lovely razor sharp freshness and purity although the nose has a slightly oxidative style which adds to the complexity. 

The 2010 La Montée de l’Epine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and is deliciously soft without much acidity, so could easily be confused with a red from further south.

These two bottles from Catherine and Philippe Delesvaux made me wonder why I don’t drink more of their wines. I do taste them from time to time but it is rare that I drink a bottle. Should put that right!   

Ce Vin 'sans 'poudre de perlimpinpin' est 'un remède prétendument miraculeux mais totalement inefficace' – Wikipedia

  

Millésime Bio 2012: The first day (cont)

2010 Clos de Guichaux, Saumur, Domaine Guiberteau (Romain Guiberteau)

At Millésime Bio I tasted a number of fine dry Loire Chenins – some already featured on the earlier post.


2010 Clos de Guichaux, Saumur, Domaine Guiberteau

Romain Guiberteau has just under 10 hectares of vines. The Clos de Guichaux is in Bizay near to Brézé and was planted with Chenin in 2003/4 with the first vintage in 2008. So far Romain has planted 1.5ha of this three hectare Clos. The area around Brézé is particularly known and suited for its whites from Chenin Blanc. The 2010 Clos de Guichaux is rich, powerful with good concentration, long apricot flavour and considerable potential to age.

2009 Le Sec de Juchepie 'Le Clos', Anjou, Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke 

Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke at Domaine Juchepie are best known for their Coteaux du Layons but their dry whites should not be overlooked. Again this is a ripe and full Chenin with fine mineral character and length. 

2009 Jarret de Montchenin, Anjou, Château de Passavant

Château de Passavant is in the upper Layon Valley. The rich 2009 Jarret is barrel fermented with attractive notes of honey and is reasonably priced at 14€ from the château. The Passavant 'basic' 2010 Chenin is crisp, lemony, easy drinking and is also fairly priced at 6.25€.  

Château de Passavant

 



   

 

     

Domaine Ogereau: two new wines

2009 En Chenin, Anjou Blanc, Domaine Ogereau

With the 2009 vintage Vincent and Catherine Ogereau have two new wines: En Chenin – an Anjou Blanc – and Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches, a Coteaux du Layon Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay.

Previously the Ogereaus had two Anjou Blancs: one that was bottled early and was a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc with an addition of 20% Chardonnay. "The Chenin-Chardonnay doesn't sell well," explained Vincent, "our clients are looking for Chenin. The En Chenin will also replace our Anjou Cuvée Prtestige."

The 2009 has quince and pear aromas with a hint of honey and mouthfilling fruit with an attractive mineral finish with some light wood notes on the finish. I'm pleased to see this change as Chenin-Chardonnay wasn't a great success and the 2009 version of this new cuvée is well superior to the old Anjou Blanc.

2009 Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches 

Harmonie des Bonnes Blanches will replace the Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Prestige. In a sense it will be second wine of the Clos des Bonnes Blanches. "We only make the Clos des Bonnes Blanches in the best vintages – so probably one year every two or three years," said Vincent. "We expect to make Harmonie almost every year and this will give us greater flexibility. The 2009 was picked at the end of October with a potential of 21˚. We have made a Clos des Bonnes Blanches in 2010 – 100 hls."

The 2009 Harmonie has a lovely purity of fruit along with a lightness of touch.  

Very fine 2002 Anjou Blanc from Château la Varière

2002 Clos de la Division, Anjou Blanc, Château la Varière, Jacques Beaujeau

I always like revelations. I remember tasting Philippe Vatan's 1990 Saumur (Château de Hureau) for the first time sometime in the summer of 1991, I guess, and then shortly afterwards drinking it with Nigel Wilkinson of the RSJ Restaurant at the Hotel Anne d'Anjou in Saumur. Philippe's Saumur Blanc was a revelation because it showed what could be done with Chenin Blanc in Saumur. Subsequently I have tasted and drunk many impressive Saumur Blancs from a number of producers but Philippe's 1990 remains a key bottle. Sadly the last one I tried a couple of years ago was completely oxidised but that is beside the point as what was important was how it tasted back in 1991 and 1992.

Although Jacques Beaujeau's 2002 is not revelatory in the same way as Philippe's was as I have tasted, drunk and enjoyed too many fine Anjou Blancs over the years for the quality of this 2002 to be a surprise. Rather I hadn't realised that Jacques Beaujeau at Varière was producing such stunningly good Anjou Blanc. Of course 2002 is a particularly well balanced and attractive vintage but even so!

Vinfication in barrel gives added complexity. The 2002 is golden hued with ripe yellow plum and peach aromas, richly textured palate, lovely balance with delicate acidity. The acidity of a Saumur Blanc of the same age would almost certainly be more marked. The 2002 could easily be mistaken for a fine Alsace wine or a Meursault, perhaps. A good match with a free range chicken in a rich sauce. It worked well this evening with chicken in a spicy coconut sauce. Proof that Anjou Blanc can be very fine and not expensive!

2008 Vieilles Vignes Anjou Blanc Château Soucherie

At the end of the French Independent Wine Growers tasting at Lords on Tuesday it was hard to refuse the many offers of bottles to take away as the producers no longer wanted them – too many for them to carry plus all the security restrictions. I did agree to take four, so I departed Lords clanking like an habitual pique-assiette. Had I wished and been strong enough I could have left with at least 12!

One of the bottles I took was this nearly full bottle of 2008 Anjou Blanc from Château Soucherie. I had been very impressed by it at the tasting, so was very pleased to get the opportunity to taste this wine, 100% Chenin Blanc from a parcel of 80 year old vines, again. It did not disappoint having a lovely balance of fruit and acidity. The acidity is the crucial element: ripe not at all green and provides a counterbalance for the quite mouth filling fruit. Wonderfully precise wine that carries off its 14% alcohol.

This property was long owned by the Tijou family but a couple of years ago it was bought by Roger François Béquinot. There are 30 hectares of vines – 24 at Beaulieu, four in Chaume and two in Savennières (Clos les Perrières).

Domaine de Bablut: a red and a white 2003

2003 Petra Alba

2003 Petra Alba, Anjou Villages Brissac
2003 Anjou Blanc

During the past few days we’ve enjoyed these two wines from Christophe Daviau’s Domaine de Bablut (Brissac–Quincé). The Daviau family have been vignerons here since 1546. The domaine is now biodynamic.

Both wines are marked by 2003, the year of the heat wave in France, particularly during August. In the Loire the vintage was the earliest since 1893 with picking beginning in the Pays Nantais, Touraine, Quincy and Reuilly around 18th August. Even in Sancerre the vintage started in early September.

We drank the 2003 Petra Alba, which is 100% Cabernet Franc grown on limestone, with a simply roasted free-range chicken. Deep coloured and with rich, full fruit – plums and prunes. Tasted blind you would think that this comes from the south of France – the effect of the sunshine and high temperatures of 2003. For me, although CRM disagreed, there is a slightly roasted quality to the fruit particularly in finish that detracts a little from the wine, although it still a very enjoyable bottle.



The 2003 barrel-fermented and aged Anjou Blanc (100% Chenin Blanc) is the more successful wine. It has a lovely golden colour, rich honeyed fruit with just a touch of oxidative evolution that adds to the complexity. Unlike a number of 2003 whites it has enough freshness and acidity in the finish to balance the rich fruit. We drank it as an aperitif but it would I’m sure be a great match with richly sauced fish dishes or grilled sea bass or similar. Along with a number of other Anjou producers this is further evidence that, despite the poor image of Anjou Blanc, it is certainly possible to make very fine whites here from 100% Chenin Blanc.

Christophe now makes two cuvées of Anjou Blanc – Ordovicien which is the equivalent of the above, spending 12 months in barriques and bottled around 18 months after the harvest – and Petit Princé, which is bottled earlier, around nine months.

Mark Angeli's Anjou Blanc 1998: the answer to the fiendish quiz

This remarkably deep coloured wine is Mark Angeli's 1998 Les Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies, Anjou Blanc. The colour suggests that it is completely oxidised and probably undrinkable. Fortunately this is certainly not the case, although tasted blind I fancy I would guess a Palo Cortado or an Oloroso from Jerez rather than an 10 year old Anjou Blanc – certainly from the nose. This Anjou Blanc comes from Mark's no sulphur period. Wisely he now adds a little sulphur at the time of bottling. Whatever the 1998 is a fascinating and complex wine that will probably continue to age well, while getting darker and darker. Ending up the colour of a PX?

This wine, Alice Fiering's The Battle for Wine and Love, Sylvie Augereau's carnet de vigne Omnivore 1er Cuvée les 200 vins 100% raisin, which is a guide to 'natural wine' in France, and the forthcoming 2009 Renaissance des Appellations tasting in Angers all put the spotlight on 'natural wines'.

People, who know about Mark's often wonderful wines, will proably have no problem with this 1998 Les Vieilles Vignes des Blanderies. But what of someone who unsuspectingly orders this from a restaurant wine list? The chances must be that they will reject the wine as being out of condition.

How would the wine have tasted and developed with a small dose of sulphur at the time of bottling. Would it have had that almost painful austerity of a long aged dry Oloroso? It surely would have had a more golden colour and different aromas.

Which brings me to the Renaissance des Appellations tasting in Angers. I expect that the 2009 edition (1st February) will again provide some of the most fascinating but equally some of the worst wine that I will taste during 2009.

It seems to me that the current fashion or accent on 'natural' wines leads to a tendency to accept anything from a 'naturally made' wine. A little oxidation can give a wine additional interest but too much will make it undrinkable. Shouldn't the first criteria when assessing be – is this wine drinkable – is it enjoyable or will it be enjoyable in future with a bit more age? Not is this wine 'natural'. Instead too often the apostles and disciples of 'natural wine' applaud that it is 'natural' first and last.

I have no doubt that once again at the Renaissance tasting there will be wonderful wines from Loire producers like Richard Leroy (Anjou Blanc), Thierry Michon (Fiefs Vendeens), Eric Nicolas (Jasnières) and others. Equally there will be some horrors – unclean, impossibly oxidised wines where the producer, blinded the non-intervention, non-sulphur religion will have sacrified their fine grapes on the altar of neo-othodoxy and instead of making something delicious will proudly display crap wines that undermine the serious purpose of the Renaissance des Appellations.

Today everyone claims that wine is made in the vineyard. You can't make good wine without good grapes. Too true but not the end of the story as you can certainly stuff up your grapes royally in the winery as some Renaissance producers demosntrate too well and that was also apparent in the large tasting of reds from the Central Vineyards I did on the 19th December.

Didier Barrouillet

The fine wines of the Clos Roche Blanche will also be available at the Renaissance tasting – but not at the Salon des Vins de Loire this year. When we visited them on Tuesday Didier explained the various techniques including a lengthy cold stablisation he had used to lower the naturally high acidities of the 2008s. At the end of the tasting, once Didier had left to finish the row of vines he was pruning, Catherine spoke with admiration of the measures and care Didier had taken over the vinification of the 2008s – an on-going care as many of the ferments are not yet finished. Non-interventionalist winemaking? Probably not but surely an example of a fine and thoughtful winemaker using whatever techniques he can to modify what 2008 has thrown at him as naturally as he can.