Excellent Jamain Reuilly for Sauvignon Blanc Day

2010 Les Chênes, Reuilly, Denis Jamain

Although I was aware towards the end of April that May Day was in addition being Labour Day was also Sauvignion Blanc Day, I had conveniently forgotten this by the time we reached 1st May. I'm not a great fan of special days to celebrate a particular grape variety. Anyway but happy coincidence I selected this 2010 Les Chênes from Denis Jamain (Domaine de Reuilly) on Friday 1st May. Along with Domaine Claude Lafond, Denis Jamain is Reuilly's top producer.

This is Denis' top white Reuilly – 100% Sauvignon Blanc as required by the appellation. It comes from 40 year old vines planted in one of the parcels of Pierres Plates in the middle of the coteau. The soil is clay-limestone Kimméridgean. Les Chênes is fermented and aged in barriques for a year. 

Denis recommends that you drink Les Chênes within five to ten years. However, this lovely 2010 still has wonderfully fresh with complex texture and concentrated fruit – peach and apricot. Showing beautifully and no reason why it should be good for at least another five years and may be more. When I first opened it was a little too cold, which subdued its complexity and made the oak more apparent. Denis recommends that ideally Les Chênes should be drunk between 13˚C and 15˚C. He is absolutely right – don't serve this cold otherwise you will miss out, which would be a great shame.        

La vignoble d'Epeigné-les-Bois: la taille et la mise en bouteille: 7.3.2020

Epeigné's community vineyard

Last April some 150 vines were planted on the coteau that overlooks the Route du Coteau on the D81 between the centre of Epeigné and the hamlet of Les Bergers. Today the vines were pruned for the first time under the watchful eyes of  Vincent Beaumont, the winemaker, and Lionel Truet of La Grande Foucaudière. A further 150 vines, which have already been ordered, will be planted later in the Spring. The plan is to plant a further 150 vines in 2021.

At the same time Epeigné's 2019 Sauvignon Blanc was racked and then bottled. These grapes from Jean-Marie's Domaine des Champs Gonneau by a community team last September and vinified by Vincent at Le Moulin du Bourg in Epeigné-les-Bois.   

       

The professionals gather early on Saturday morning

La pause café avant commencer

Vincent, Epeigné's stellar wine consultant (centre), 

outlines the day's programme....

No need to employ Michel Rolland!!

The 2020 recolte awaiting racking and la mise en bouteille 

Lionel Truet keeping a watchful eye on proceedings 

Cleaning the new bag-in-box before racking

Adding a small dose of SO2 before racking

 

Racking underway

(above and below)

 La taille

 (above and below)

Epeigné's chef de culture....

The bottling line

A corking wine!

Some of the bottled 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

A spectator sport! 

Such is the fame of Epeigné's wine that
it attracts visitors from Columbia.....!! 

 L'équipe 

(above and below)

A highly trained nose.....

un nez ideal pour la dégustation.... 

Vincent with two fans.....

Notre 2019 Sauvignon Blanc – Santé !! 

2018 Loire – is this the birth of a legendary vintage?

 Pinot Noir awaiting sorting 

@Domaine Henri Bourgeois

On Friday Alphone Mellot snr was categorical: "This is a mythical vintage – 1947 but with quantity!" Alphonse Père was born in 1947 – obviously he will remember little of that year but says that he has never seen a vintage of this quality.

We will see but certainly overall the fruit from the vineyards we have so far visited –  Pays Nantais, Chinon, Montlouis, AC Touraine, Sancerre, Saint-Pourçain, Côte Roannaise and Côtes de Forez – has been very clean and healthy with almost no rot. For those producers equipped with sorting tables there has been little for the sorters to do apart from removing the odd leaf or grapes that have been shriveled by the sun. 

Gamay @Vincent Roussely

Alphonse Snr is not alone in never having seeing fruit like this. Vincent Roussely of Clos Roussely in Angé (AC Touraine): "This is my 19th vintage and I have never seen grapes like these." His Sauvignon Blanc is averaging 13.5% alcohol but still with good acidity plus a yield of 50 hl/ha when 30 hl/ha is his normal yield – Vincent farms organically.

In Bué (AC Sancerre) I tasted several juices – some that were just starting to ferment – with Florent Pinard. They were very clean, rich but with a freshness in the finish – surprising as for a number of days during the harvest temperatures were 30˚C and more. Fortunately many in Sancerre are equipped with liquid CO2 to cool down the grapes rapidly when they arrive at the winery. Also a number of producers, like François and Carine Crochet and Vincent and Adelaide Grall who pick by hand, started early in morning and finished at lunchtime. 

I also tasted a number of 2018 juices with Pascal Jolivet during a brief but very interesting visit. As at the Pinards the 2018 juices look very promising. It was good of Pascal to give up some of his valuable time, especially as his Italian winemaker had fallen that morning, hit her head and was in hospital. I wish her a swift recovery.  

After two difficult years due to frost producers in Pouilly-Fumé are happy both with the quality and quantity. "We had just 18 hl/ha in 2016," Loic Cailbourdin told me. 'The following year it was 28 hl/ha. This year we are averaging 60 hl/ha, although it is less in some parcels." 

Sauvignon Blanc@ Domaine Vacheron 

awaiting pressing        

There are as always exceptions and caveats:

Mildew has been a severe problem for certain producers, especially those practising organic viticulture and in certain appellations such as Montlouis. In Thursday post I mentioned that Jacky Blot had been very badly hit in some parcels but not in the 'grand terroirs'. When I saw Xavier Weisskopf on Wednesday he said his yield this year is 22 hl/ha. Xavier has had a real roller coaster over the last three years. Last year his yield was 55 hl/ha while in 2016 it was just 1 hl/ha due to the series of April frosts. He had to buy in grapes from Vouvray to make up the deficit. 

High degrees of alcohol may also prove to be a problem if only to make 2018 not a 'typical' Loire vintage – just as 1989 and 2003 produced wines that have characteristics of vineyards much further south in France. 14% alcohol levels are 'normal' this year, they head up into 15% and even in some rare cases 16% and above. 16.6% is the highest reported. Of course it will usually be possible to blend these powerful lots with those with lower alcohol. There is also the question whether juice at 15.5˚- 16˚+ will actually ferment dry. 

Philippe Gilbert (Menetou-Salon), who found the heat of the vintage particularly tiring, said: "My concern is that the 2018 wines will not be typical of the Loire rather they will have the characteristics of wines from much further south." I suggested to Philippe that this was also the case in 1989 and 2003, for instance. Philippe was relieved that his pH readings were in the right range. 

Of the producers I have seen all have been satisfied – in some cases relieved – that the pH in their juice are correct – most around 3.15-3.30. There are some unconfirmed rumours that the pH levels for some other producers are considerably higher but I didn't come across any producer worried about high pH levels. 

One of the positive weather factors this year was the wet and humid end of May and early June. This meant that there was a reserve of water available for the very dry months that followed. However, young vines on well drained soils have suffered as their root systems are not as well developed as older vines. 

Later today we are headed to Bourgueil, Chinon and Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Here I think picking started during last week, so it will be interesting to catch up on what has been happening.  

Sorting @Domaine Vincent Delaporte  

before going through their new
automatic tilted
plate press

     

      

Loire 2018 – round up of harvest news

Since we arrived in the Loire we have seen producers from Muscadet Sèvre et Maine to the Côtes de Forez – just about from one Loire vinous extremity to the other.

In Touraine Vincent Ricard started picking on Monday 3rd September. He is happy as he has avoided any serious attack of mildew but at the cost of treating his vines 14 or 15 times. His Sauvignon is coming in at between 12.5˚ potential with the acidity averaging 5.2. Yields at 50-55 hl/ha. He expects to finish harvesting the middle of next week.

Vincent Roussely (Angé) started picking on Monday 10th September. Due to the heat they are only picking in the morning. I saw some Sauvignon Rosé that they had picked – the grapes very healthy and clean.

Luc Poullain, Domaine des Echardières – also in Angé – like Vincent Roussely also started on Monday but picking Chardonnay. He warned that vines on clay were coping well with the drought – just 10mm of rain in two months – but other on easy draining soils were suffering with maturation blocked especially if they were young vines.

In Montlouis Jacky Blot started on Thursday (6th) – earlier than he had originally thought but with the grapes ripening rapidly he didn't want the alcohol levels to shoot up and the acidity to fall away, especially as he picks by hand – three teams of pickers in action.

In certain parcels he has been badly hit by mildew with very small yields. However, the incidence is very irregular with his best parcels like the Clos Mosny and Clos Michet resisting well.

Jacky and a team started picking his top Vouvray (Vin de France) from the Clos de Venise on Thursday 13th September.

On our way to the Côte Roannaise last Thursday (13th) we dropped in quickly to see the Pinards  – Vincent, Florent and Clément – in Bué and then Domaine Fouassier in Sancerre itself. The Pinards started picking their Pinot Noir on Thursday 6th and have subsequently picked some of their Sauvignon Blanc. They are very happy with the results to date with the Pinot coming in at 12.4˚ to 13.5˚ potential with acidity averaging around 5. Florent and Clément thought that the 2018 reds will be easy to drink and easily digestible.

2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre)

2018 Pinot Noir (Sancerre)

Benoît Fouassier was also very happy with their 2018s. They started on 5th and have been picking both Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. The Pinot, which they have nearly finished, coming in at up to 14˚, while the Sauvignon Blanc is between 12.5˚ and 13.5˚ and an acidity on 4-4.5.

From Sancerre we headed south to the small town of Renaison in the heart of the Côte Roannaise where we stayed at the Hotel Central, which is in town square. The hotel is very reasonably priced and is run by the very welcoming Arlette, who appears to have boundless energy as she is on the go from the early morning until late at night.

The Côte Roannaise we saw Carine, Stéphane and Robert Sérol (Domaine Robert Sérol). Their chai and some of their vineyards are up above Renaison and is one of the appellations top domaines. They started picking at the end of the previous week –  Gamay for their pétillant rosé naturel – Turbullent. Picking Gamay for their reds had started this morning.

2018 Gamay, Domaine des Pothiers, Côte Roannaise

Early on the Friday we also saw Romain Paire (Domaine des Pothiers) – another top Roannaise estate. Romain had started that morning – kicking off with his Pinot Gris (13˚ potential) before moving onto his Gamay. The juice tasted very clean and promising. Indeed everywhere the fruit in the Roannaise and the Forez looked very clean and healthy with apparently much less mildew than you can find in parts of Touraine. We also saw Simon Hawkins, an English guy who with his French wife bought the Domaine de Fontenay in 1991 and started making wine leaving the textile business behind.
We had left the car in Renaison and instead explored the Roannaise on our e-bikes. Along with the Côtes de Forez and Sancerre I think that the Côte Roannaise is one of the three most picturesque Loire appellations. The vines are planted on the lower slopes of the granite hills that quickly rise to 1000 metres or more – so an electric bike is certainly a good investment, especially if you are of pensionable age. There are plenty of quiet roads both through the charming little villages and up higher in the hills.

Gilles and his team sorting Gamay @Domaine de la Madone
– little sorting needed this year

Friday we headed the just over 50 kilometres south to Champdieu and Gilles Bonnefoy Domaine de la Madone. Gilles was generally  happy with the way the harvest was progressing, although he had some parcels of vines that were suffering from the drought. We tasted some Gamay that he had picked the day before which had already taken on good colour even after one day but without much tannin in the skins. Gilles was happy with the potential degrees – between 11.5˚ and 12.5˚ – as his clientele appreciates wines with relatively low alcohol levels.

Max @Verdier Logel, Côtes de Forez

Leaving Domaine de la Madone we stopped off briefly at the Cave Verdier-Logel and saw Odile, Max and Jacky. They were preparing to start picking yesterday  (17th September). Max was hoping that there would be no rain despite the drought because any rain was now too late to be beneficial. Instead rain was all too likely to provoke rot.

Jean Teissèdre (left) with his Portuguese worker 

On our way back to Touraine we made a first visit to Domaine des Bérioles in Saint-Pourçain in the hamlet of Cesset, to the west of the town of Saint-Pourçain, Bérioles has been rightly building a reputation since Jean Teissèdre took over the domaine in 2011, when it had 7 hectares. He was later joined by his sister Sophie and her husband – Jérôme Roux. The domaine has now more than doubled in size with 15 hectares in production and two more planted.

On the Friday when we visited they were picking Chardonnay, which was very clean and healthy. The nearby Pinot Noir looked equally healthy with no sign of rot. During the visit it was very interesting to see a parcel of ripening Tressalier, the local grape which will be picked last.

Tressalier grape also known as Sacy outside Saint-Pourçain
– note pinkish tinge @Domaine des Bérioles

Due to the artificial constraints imposed by the appellation rules – 100% Tressalier and 100% Pinot Noir are banned - a very significant part of their production is sold as IGP. "This makes no difference to our sales" says Jean "as we now have established a reputation but it is a pity for the appellation."

A few more wedding photos featuring the good choice of wine

Shona – a beautiful bride and smart wine buyer

The wines served at Shona and Liam's wedding reception were well chosen by Shona. Following the marital ceremony Bouvet's well-made Saumur Brut. This mainly Chenin Blanc with some Chardonnay. It worked very well – at times like this there is no sense in going beyond a well-made, agreeable glass of fizz.

Few, if any, wedding guests are paying much attention to the wine in their glass as long as it is enjoyable since they are busy chatting, taking photos etc.    

Guests enjoying their Bouvet:

Cheerful hats 

(above and below)

 

Relaxed elegance ...... or

... more formal

 

Serving more Bouvet ready for the toasts

Wines with the meal:

For the meal Shona opted for the 2016 Devil's Creek, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough and, for the red – the 2016 Porta 6 from the Lisbon area – a blend of 50% Tinto Roriz, 40% Castelãu and 10% Touriga Nacional. I ought to have been able to provide a tasting note for the Sauvignon Blanc but I forgot to try it – what did I say about wine and weddings! 

Instead like many of the rest of the guests I went for the attractively softly black fruited but nicely concentrated Porta 6 – a good example of how good Portuguese red wines can be without concentrating on international varieties.