Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Showing posts with label 2009 European Wine Bloggers' Conference. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2009 European Wine Bloggers' Conference. Show all posts

Wednesday, 4 November 2009

2009 European Wine Bloggers Conference

An early wine blogger...?

Some concluding thoughts:
Now back from the Douro and the 2nd European Wine Bloggers Conference is over. However even before this one closed its doors and recycled the last empty bottle of wine, ideas and possible venues for 2010 were being proposed and discussed.

It has all been pretty intense with little time to catch up and write up tastings, impressions, etc but over the next couple of days I should now have time to write up the visits and tastings.

Anyone, who still thought that wine blogging was a temporary phenomenon, should have been disabused of the idea by the sharp increase in numbers from last year's conference up from around 40 participants to nearly 130 this time. 130 very disparate bloggers – most within the wine industry but also some with no wine work connection.

The machine is the message...?

Inevitably the question of how to make money from blogging arose. There was a suggestion that getting advertising from wineries would be acceptable but I, Quentin Sadler and others rejected that completely on the obvious grounds that accepting winery advertising would both destroy one's credibility and forfeit your independence. Ryan Opaz challenged me by asking what is the difference between writing for magazines like Decanter, which accept advertising, and blogging on Jim's Loire. The answer is that I don't know whose adverts Decanter is carrying nor have Decanter ever asked me to write about particular producers.

Ryan Opaz: "Would it be the same if there could be advertising for which you didn't know the source?" I'm not at all sure how this would work – shall have to get more details from Ryan – but I fancy this would also be compromising.

The consensus, if indeed one was reached, was that you are more likely to make money (monetise!) indirectly from a blog (e.g. sales of photos, articles, invitations to talk or lecture, sales if you are a merchant) rather than directly from advertising, etc. Rather depends on the number of visitors you are able to attract.

Poster designed for second #EWBC by Jimmy Pons

Samples – another old favourite – was also raised. As far as covering Loire wines is concerned, having samples is an essential part of the job. I cannot afford to buy all the Loire wines I need to taste and, although it is always valuable to taste wines at a domaine, it is also useful to be able to taste some of the wines later. Tasting wines under different conditions is important and especially seeing how they match with food. My aim is to assess wine samples as objectively as those wines that I have bought. No-one would expect a film critic to pay to see all the films they need to see nor a motoring journalist to buy all the cars they review.

A slightly soft focus Doug Cook

I've already mentioned Doug Cook's Able Grape and internet search presentation. Although perhaps obvious it is good to be reminded that it is better to have a smaller number of committed and focused visitors than high numbers that may well include robotic searchers. Rowan Gormley, whose introduction to Naked Wines and, asked why Able Grape didn't include retailers in their listings as people want to know where to buy wines they read about, his explanation of how they involve their customers and sponsor winemakers was also useful. I hope Doug doesn't include retailers as it is good to have a search engine that cuts out the noise of who stocks what and lists instead just information about the wine, the producer, region, etc. In any case if you search on 'able grape' you'll find the excellent wine-searcher appearing at the top of the list or close to it, so making it easy to check out the retailers. The problem with Google, excellent for many things, is that you often have to wade through long lists of retailers before you find you information you are looking for. I expect to be using Able Grape regularly from now on.

Adegga is another interesting development. Based in Portugal their aim is to introduce unique numbers for wines in the same way that books have ISBNs to identify them.

Because of its flexibility Wordpress appears to be the blog format of choice amongst experienced bloggers. For the moment, at least, Jim's Loire will stay on Blogger as, despite its quirks, it generally allows me to post what I want and in the way that I want it to look. I have, however, been inspired to add a few new gadgets (see next but one post).

As ever the most valuable part of the conference was meeting new people, especially those on the trips – to Terras do Sado and the two-day Douro Boys' excursion to the Douro Valley – new contacts from many parts of the world. I have added a number of new links to Jim's Loire including Able Grape, Adegga, Eat like a girl, Daniele Delgesso's wine on the rocks, Anthony Swift's Wine pleasures and others.

Are we seeing a progression to small is better and better? Blogs have taken traffic away from some traditional wine websites. Now twatter (do you mean twitter?) may be doing the same to blogs. Will it be the European Wine Twitters Conference next year??

Related article on samples
The Gray Market Report: Dear FTC I take freebies


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Monday, 2 November 2009

#EWBC: Up the Douro with the Douro Boys

I'm off on the Douro trip this morning after too little sleep. Here's the Douro Boys programme:

Monday Nov 2nd


8.00 :: Leave VIP Grand Lisboa by bus
13.00 :: Visit at Quinta Vale Meao, tasting and lunch
17.00 :: Train to Ferrao
18.30 :: Tasting and Dinner at Crasto.
Overnight at Vallado and Aquapura


Tuesday Nov 3rd

9.30 :: Visit of Vallado, tasting of Vallado and VDMaria wines.
13.00 :: Drive to Napoles. Lunch and visit there.
16.00 :: Departure to Porto airport or by bus to Lisbon.
18.00 :: Arrival at Porto airport. Individual departure

#EWBC@Restaurante Alfândega

Organisers: Gabriella and Ryan Opaz

Some pictures from a great closing evening of the Second Wine Bloggers Conference at the Restaurante Alfândega in Lisbon.

Rob McIntosh and Ken Payton

Justin Roberts

Gabriella

Denise Medrano: winesleuth.wordpress.com

Miss VickyWine dancing

More bloggers' dancing

André Riberinho does his Andy Murray impression

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Sunday, 1 November 2009

#EWBC: very enjoyable Sunday in Terras do Sado and Setúbal

Bacalhôa winery: horse's head

As programmed our bus left at 9.30 just as Justin' Time (née Roberts) hurled himself from a taxi and onto the bus.

First stop was the large Bacalhôa winery, where we had a visit and a tasting. We should have been going to the lovely Quinta do Bacalhôa with its gardens and azulejos, which dates back some four hundred years, but unfortunately there is renovation work going on there at the moment. In December 2003 I'd visited the Quinta but I don't think I had seen the winery, which was founded in 1992 under the name of João Pires et Filhos. In 1998 Comendador Berardo became the major shareholder in the company and, in time, the company name was changed to Bacalhôa.

Arches and part of the winery

Bacalhôa Wines has a production capacity of 20 million litres, space for 15,000 barrels and around 1000 hectares of vines.

It is possibly easier to list the major Portuguese wine companies that Berardo doesn't own than mention the ones that he does. After an initial joint venture with Lafite-Rothschild at Quinta do Carmo in the Alentejo, Berardo now owns Carmo and last year became the major shareholder in Aliança.

Berardo is a great art collector and there is plenty of evidence of this at the winery including many old azulejos. Close the entrance to the large winery, there are copies of the famous Chinese terracota army. The soldiers and their horses are currently in a rather shabby state, although they may be in the process of renovation.

The terracotta army with the winery in the background

Barrels for aging Moscatel

We had a very good tasting, conducted by Vasco Garcia, the chief winemaker, of seven wines. Although it was All Saints Day the commercial director was also present. With one exception, they showed well and are all good value for money.

We started with the 2008 Loridos Alvarinho, Vinho Branco Regional Lisboa (7-8€). Most Alvarinho comes from the northern part of the Minhão around Moncão (Vinho Verde production area). This was decidedly lean, austere and lemony – tonique! in French. I would have liked to have seen a little generosity of fruit. On this evidence it may well be best not to plant more Alvarinho around Lisbon.

The crisp 2008 Catarina, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (6€), was a much less challenging white. It is made from Fernão Pires and Arinto grown on flat sandy soils and Chardonnay on the limestone slopes of the Arrábida mountains. Offers good value at 6€.

We started the reds with the company's oldest brand – the sooty, herbal and leafy 2007 Tinto da Anfora, Regional Alentejano (6€). The company has 350ha of vines in the Alentejo and Anfora comes from vines in three zones in the region – Portalegre, Borba and Arraiolos. Anfora is a blend of number of varieties including Aragonez (Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Cabernet Sauvignon. It's one of those wine that underlines what great value can be had in Portugal in this 4-7€ range. Unlike some of the icon wines that too often have silly price tags.

Next the single varietal 2006 Só Touriga Nacional, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (11-12€) with its combination of violets, herbal freshness along with structure and power in the finish. One of the more successful varietal Tourigas but still could have done of any variety to soften out the angles.

Then the top wine from the showpiece estate in Azeitão – the dense and smoky 2005 Palácio da Bacalhoa, Regional Peninsula de Sétubal (30€). The initial sweet fruit including blackcurrant and toast is balanced by quite a lean finish: a good wine and quite reasonably priced. This 'Bordeaux blend' is a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%), Merlot (43%) and Petit Verdot (6%) and it spends 17 months in French oak barriques. The straight Quinta wine sells for 15€.

Finally two examples of Sétubal's unique Moscatel – sadly overlooked ahnd virtually unknown outside Portugal. 'The true secret of Portugal." remarked Charles Metcalfe. The 1999 Balcalhôa Moscatel de Sétubal (15€) is a lovely combination of nuts, sultanas, marmalade, sweet apricot and freshness in the finish. Vasco explained that it is the high acidity that makes Moscatel de Sétubal stand out from other fortified wines – both Muscats and other styles. 1983 was the first vintage Moscatel that Bacalhôa made. Apparently 1998 was an extremely good Moscatel vintage and that the 1999 is less concentrated but is still pretty impressive. Mental note: drink more Moscatel de Setúbal!

We finished with a rarity: 1999 Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo (18€ for 50cls). Most Moscatel here is made from Muscat d'Alexandrie. However, there is a small amount of Roxo, a red Muscat variety that virtually died out here about 20 years ago. Aromas of rose are very characteristic of Roxo. During the 1980s Bacalhôa planted some 4ha of Roxo. It is a very early ripening variety with small berries. Occasionally it ripens in late July. The second and third week of August is more common. In contrast Muscat d'Alexandrie is the latest variety in the region to ripen. As well as aromas of rose the rich and concentrated 1999 Roxo has rich apricot and burnt marmalade flavours. More concentration than the previous Moscatel but less finesse and freshness.

Ryan's 'ere


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