Stock photo of volcanic eruption at Tungurahua (Ecuador)
Some local tensions
In common with a number of other French wine regions producers in the Auvergne appear to have problems working together for the collective good. This was highlighted by a news item in La Montagne when there was a change in the presidency of the Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne at the end of 2019.
Yvan Bernard was président of the Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne from 2015 to 2019, when he resigned and was replaced by Gilles Vidal, an associate of Desprat Saint-Verny. It is unfortunate that the La Montagne article reports that there has long been strife between the independent vignerons and the members of the Saint-Verny Cooperative – now associates of Desprat Saint-Verny.
In common with a number of other French wine regions producers in the Auvergne appear to have problems working together for the collective good. This was highlighted by a news item in La Montagne when there was a change in the presidency of the Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne at the end of 2019.
Yvan Bernard was président of the Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne from 2015 to 2019, when he resigned and was replaced by Gilles Vidal, an associate of Desprat Saint-Verny. It is unfortunate that the La Montagne article reports that there has long been strife between the independent vignerons and the members of the Saint-Verny Cooperative – now associates of Desprat Saint-Verny.
Yvan is currently vice-président of Loire Volcanique –
the association formed last year to promote the four Upper Loire
appellations: Côtes d'Auvergne, Côtes de Forez, Côte Roannaise and
Saint-Pourçain. Loire Volcanique should not be confused with Vinora*,
an organisation covering wines from around the world produced from
vines planted in volcanic soils. Vinora was formed a few years ago with
Pierre Desprat, who is its président, a leading player. It held its
first conference and salon at the end of January 2020 at
Clérmont-Ferrand.
Vidal is keen to end the disagreements and has as his two vice-presidents two independent producers: Benoît Montel in Riom and Pierre Goigoux, who has his own domaine but is also an associate of Desprat Saint-Verny. Goigoux was president of the Syndicat between 2011 and 2013, while Montel is president of the Fédération Viticole des Côtes d'Auvergne and Vidal is the vice-president of this organisation.
Yvan Bernard, ex-president Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne
Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne
vice-président
Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne
Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne
Pierre Goigoux
vice-président
Syndicat AOC Côtes d'Auvergne
Unfortunately
there is tension between Vinora and Loire Volcanique. Léa
Desprat, daughter of Pierre, is critical of the name – Loire Volcanique –
as from the four appellations involved Saint-Pourçain and Côte
Roannaise do not have volcanic soils. Benoît Montel, vice-president of
Loire Volcanique, says Loire and Volcanique are two separate entities.
This seems to me to be too fine and subtle distinction and that most
people will naturally assume that the soils of all four appellations are
of volcanic origin. This is regrettable as I think the grouping of
these four appellations makes sense, especially at present when a
renaissance is underway in the Upper Loire. Perhaps a better name would
be 'La Loire commence ici', although, of course, the source of the Loire
is considerably further south.
Regrettably there is almost no overlap between the producers involved in Vinora and Loire Volcanique as only Annie Sauvat is a member of both groups.
Côtes d'Auvergne members of Vinora: Clos Luern, Desprat Saint-Verny, La Tour de Pierre, La Croix Arpin (Pierre Goigoux), Domaine Gougis, Miolanne, David Pelissier, Domaine Sauvat (Annie Sauvat), Domaine Vincent Auzolle.
Côtes d'Auvergne members of Loire Volcanique: Yvan
Bernard, Domaine Charmensat, Benoît Montel, Gilles
Persilier, Domaine Catherine & Roland Royet, Domaine Sauvat (Annie Sauvat),
Domaine des Trouillères.
*: David Cobbold, member of Les 5 du Vin, was at Vinora. Here are links to the two articles he wrote on the event – here and here.
