Patrick Rols' Chenin Blanc from the Averyron

2010 la coccinelle, Vin de pays de l'Aveyron, Patrick Rols 

Back label giving brief details 

Note deposit@the bottom of the bottle 

This 100% Chenin Blanc from Patrick Rols in Conques in the Aveyron, which is amongst the least populated French départment is the first of a small case of samples from Les Caves de Pyrène, which I will be tasting over the next few days. 

Some may be surprised that Chenin Blanc is grown down in the Aveyron. In fact it is the white variety of two small appellations nearby – Entraygues et du Fel and Estaing. Quite why Chenin Blanc ended up as the principal variety of this rather hidden part of France is something I need to research. 

Here is Douglas Wregg's (Cave de Pyrène) bio on Patrick Rols and explanation about his wines:

'Patrick’s domaine is in  the  village  of Conques, in the Aveyron, the undiscovered heart of the South West. The  total vineyard  area  is a piffling 6 hectares. Although vines had  been  established  in  the  Aveyron  region  by  Burgundian  monks  in  the middle  ages,  these  were  subsequently  wiped out by phylloxera and the two world wars. Patrick replanted on a  beautiful site overlooking  the  village on predominantly schist soils. He  farms  organically,  and  also  uses  biodynamics treatments.  His vineyard  received  a  certificate for organic  farming from the  agency Qualité France  in  2009. Patrick  uses  either barriques or  ’foudres’  to  carry out  the  alcoholic  fermentation  of his white wines.'

La cochinelle is the French for ladybird – a very useful insect that eats many unwanted insects. Of course, if you stray weedkiller over your vineyards, you won't have any ladybirds. Indeed you vineyard will have few, if any, insects and no biodiversity. Patrick Rols doesn't use weedkiller at all in his six hectares of vines, so should get plenty of ladybirds and other insects.   

Light golden colour with ripe apple aromas and flavours plus good typical Chenin acidity in the finish. Also there is a touch of sweetness in the finish and some oak. Should not be served too cool. I enjoyed this as an aperitif. It was also a fair match with a very good piece of smoked haddock (bought from Billings in Sydenham High Street) and served with a cream and horseradish sauce.

     

Patrick Rols la coccinelle, 2010 Vin de pays de l'Aveyron 

 Detail...

Eric Narioo and Le Petit Curieux

I rather assume that the sales force of Les Caves de Pyrene must feel a certain sense of trepidation when Eric Narioo, their boss man, heads off on one of his now legendary wine buying trips. What amazing find will Eric come with this time to test their wine selling skills?

Take the 2007 Le Petit Curieux, VDP de l'Aveyron from Patrick Rols of Le Colombier, Conques. I can imagine Douglas Wregg, Les Caves' resourceful sales director, taking a call from Eric deep in the Lot Valley.

"Bonjour, Douglas. I've just found this fantastic wine."
"Where are you Eric?"
"In the Aveyron, Douglas. I'm with Patrick Rols, a great producer near Conques and he's got this barrel of sweet Chenin or, at least, it was supposed to be sweet?"
"Supposed. Eric?" (Douglas looks concerned.)
"It was sweet, Douglas, but it refermented in barrel."
"So now it's sparkling, Eric?"
"No, just slightly pétillant." (Douglas looks more concerned – another looming challenge! ) "I asked the producer," continues Eric, "what he was going to do with it. He didn't know, so I've bought it."
"Well at least it's just one barrel, Eric!" replies Douglas as he looks around for a very stiff drink!

The classic Sir Walter Raleigh telephone sketch here will give a flavour of this imaginary call between Eric and Douglas.

So what about the 2007 Le Petit Curieux? Chenin is the white variety planted in this part of the Lot Valley and is found in nearby Entraygues et du Fel and Estaing. Due to the refermentation the wine is dominated by yeasty aromas and flavours – certainly for me on the cusp between drinkability and fit to be poured down the sink.

I was intrigued to see how Douglas and his resourceful team dealt with Eric's Curieux purchase, so below is the tasting note from Les Caves' Weird and Wonderful tasting – a showcase of our "Natural" wines held on 30th October 2009.

'This wine resists easy categorisation. Light gold, it conveys a touch of funny honey on the nose giving way on the palate to ripe, almost tropical-fruit-like pineapple chunks in syrup, followed by full throttle tartness. Not for beginners!'

'Funny honey' is a stroke of genius!