Entrée, poisson, plat, dessert – 54€
Showing posts with label Noble Joué. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Noble Joué. Show all posts
Saturday, 15 October 2016
Another brilliant meal @La Promenade, Maison Dallais, Le Petit Pressigny
Menu @La Promenade
Menu Tradition: Entrée, plat, dessert – 43€
Entrée, poisson, plat, dessert – 54€
Entrée, poisson, plat, dessert – 54€
Last night we were back at La Promenade – Maison Dallais – in Le Petit Pressigny where we had another fabulous meal. It was so good that it was very difficult afterwards to pick out our favourite courses. Despite the damage Brexit has down to Sterling in relation to the Euro its remains good value for the exceptional quality.
For our apéro we enjoyed an excellent bottle of 2015 Noble Joué from Michel Rousseau.
The mise en bouche includes foie gras
Foie gras in a Madeira jelly, haricots verts et ceps
Huîtres speciales, compotée d'artichaut, ecume de mer
Tourteau frais decortique, crème de petit pois, pince au beurre de thym
(above and below)
2015 Le Chenin de la Colline,
François Plouzeau
– enough weight and richness to make it a good match with the fois gras.
It also worked with the oysters
The four of the five of us went for the additional fish course – a perfectly cooked piece of merlan (whiting) with en croute de persil, coquillages et citron confit.
Côte de sanglier caramelisée, jus d'oignon,
embeurrée de chou et marrons grillées
The justly famous glistening mashed butter with a little potato
Fine bottle of Philippe Alliet's 2010 l'Huisserie, Chinon
Negative profiterole before the hot sauce is poured on it
Then as the sauce is poured
.... to reveal the chou pastry under the
dome of chocolate
Paris Brest
Mignardises.....
Sunday, 29 May 2016
Clos de Jeanne, Genillé – excellent annual Les HP lunch
Night time view of the Clos de Jeanne, Genillé
Today we held the annual lunch of Les Huîtres Pétillantes, the company we formed in order to buy the house in Epeigné-les-Bois back in 1987. This year we chose Le Clos de Jeanne in Genillé. We had an execllent meal and were very well looked after by Bernadette Auroy – the owner along with her husband Alain, who is the chef.
For our apéro we chose the 2015 Noble Joué from Rémi Cosson. Made from three Pinots – Gris, Meunier and Noir – this delicately coloured rosé has attractive red fruits along with good, crisp acidity.
Because we were a group of eight we understandably had a restricted choice of dishes, particularly as today was the Fête des Mers so the restaurant was busy. For our entrées we had a choice of asperges gratinés au parmesan et jambon cru italien or dariole de crabe, tomates-cerise, mesclun et crème ciboulette. Unfortunately I was hungry and forgot to take photos of these but my asparagus was very good.
With this course we enjoyed the 2014 Les Choisilles, Montlouis Sec from François Chidaine. Beautifully balanced with rich complex fruit from this very good vintage – underlining the quality of Chidaine's wines.
Main course choices: Pièce de boeuf 'Angus', beurre au piment d'Espelette, mousseline de pommes de terre au paprika (above) or marmite de la mer à la sauce safranée, brunoise de légumes de saison. The marmite had salmon, cod and julienne. Both dishes were excellent.
Our red option was the delicious 2014 Saumur-Champigny from Antoine Sanzay. Antoine has made several lovely cuvées in 2014 and this one is particularly impressive for being Antoine's straight domaine wine.
We had the full choice of desserts:
Tarte aux pommes flambées au calvados
Gâteau au chocolat, sauce au chocolat et
glace chocolat noir suisse 'Frey'
Sablé breton aux fraises de saison et
mascarpone sorbet fraise 'sengana'
Nos profieteroles sauce au chocolat
Not much left of the profiteroles .....
Wednesday, 27 April 2016
Frost in Loire the night of 26th/27th April 2016 – grim and heartbreaking news
La nature est parfois difficile avec ceux qui pour autant l'aime encore.
Exemple confirmée à La Charpenterie.
Exemple confirmée à La Charpenterie.
Photo by
Near La Chapelle-sur-Loire
(Photo taken from a post by Sabrina Cyprien Caslot-Bourdin.
I hope my use of her very sad photo will be acceptable.)
Parts of the Loire were hit by a sharp frost early this morning with temperatures falling well below zero, with reports of temperatures as low as -6˚ in some places.
My concern started late last night with reports of plunging temperatures, clear skies and photos of candles, frost pots, etc. out in the vineyards in an attempt to save the fragile vine buds.
My concern grew at 5am BST when I saw photos on Facebook of thermometer temperatures down to -2˚. Worst fears were soon confirmed within a few hours.
Today was the third day tasting Loire wines at The Decanter World Wine Awards. Although we tasted some very good wines, especially from the 2014 and 2015 vintages, the bad new from the Loire for the 2016 vintage was always at the forefront of my mind.
It is difficult at the moment, and from a distance, to know how bad and how widespread this frost has been. Certainly some vineyards have suffered catastrophic losses with the 2016 vintage already wiped out or virtually so.
The damage appears to be worst in Bourgueil, Chinon, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Azay-le-Rideau. Reports also suggest that Vouvray, Montlouis and Noble Joué may have been badly hit.
Vineyards in the Loir-et-Cher may have been less badly hit. In any case it will take a few days to really be able to evaluate the damage.
Frost never comes at a good time but this year's frost, and there had been some frost damage during the night of Sunday/Monday 18th April, has come at a particularly bad time. There has been an increasing awareness that there are some very good things happening in the Loire and the wines are increasing in fashion.
After a number of short vintages, especially 2012 and 2013, many Loire producers' stocks are low and finances already tight. Even 2014 and 2015 for many have not been over-generous – not helped by the ongoing losses to Esca, which typically may be 5-10% a year.
Although it is a long time back, the stock situation in 1991 – the worst Loire frost in recent memory – may well have been better as 1990 was both a very good but also generous vintage.
My thoughts are very much with my Loire vigneron friends this evening.
••
From http://www.boursorama.com:
'Les vignobles en Indre-et-Loire des appellations Chinon, Bourgeuil
et Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil ont été durement touchés par des "gelées
noires" dans la nuit de mardi à mercredi et "au moins la moitié de la
récolte est perdue", selon les responsables du secteur.
"C'est
assez clairement une gelée historique, de l'ordre de celle de 1994, et
peut-être de 1991", lorsque la presque totalité de la récolte avait été
perdue sur ces appellations, a déclaré à l'AFP M. Guillaume Lapaque,
directeur des associations viticoles d'Indre-et-Loire et de la Sarthe.
"Tout
l'ouest du département a été touché par des gelées allant de -3 à -4°,
avec des pointes à -6°, alors que les vignes sont en plein débourrage
(ouverture des bourgeons, ndlr), c'est à dire à un moment extrêmement
critique", a-t-il précisé.
Pour M. Lapaque, "c'est paradoxalement
un effet du réchauffement climatique: les hivers doux avancent la date
du débourrage, tandis que les gelées tardives ont toujours lieu à la
même époque".'
Monday, 12 May 2014
The Loire frost-free in 2014?
Frost protection in Noble-Joué
Although budbreak was very early in 2014 it looks as though the Loire has very fortunately escaped frost this year. I know this is tempting fate but the Meteo France forecast shows no indication of temperatures over the next week to 10 days anywhere close to freezing. This is excellent news as a serious frost would not only wipe out part of the 2014 crop but also probably wipe out a number of producers, struggling financially with two short vintages – 2012 and 2013. It has doubtless been a long and anxious wait for producers since budbreak at the end of March/early April but they should now be able to breathe more easily, except fingers crossed that there is no hail!
Saturday, 27 August 2011
2011 Loire vintage: further news snippets
Bunch of Sauvignon Blanc waiting to be picked at Clos Roche Blanche
I gather that the first estate to start picking in the Cher Valley was Domaine Jacky Marteau, now run by Jacky's son – Rodolphe. They machine harvested on Thursday. It looks like a number of producers will be starting here on Monday including Thierry Delaunay (Domaine Joël Delaunay), who will picking Chardonnay for his sparkling wine. Thierry told me that his Sauvignon Blanc is now at 12.5% potential but with 4.5 acidity.
Thierry Delaunay
Across the valley at Thésée Vincent Ricard will also be starting Monday picking Sauvignon Blanc. Vincent expects to be picking quickly as none of his fruit is below 12% potential with acidities at 5.2/5.3 – higher than at Clos Roche Blanche and Thierry Delaunay.
Vincent Ricard
Elsewhere in Touraine picking for Noble Joué (rosé made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris) can also start on Monday.
Thursday, 2 June 2011
2011 Vitiloire: the 9th edition: 28th and 29th May
(Originally posted on Les 5 du Vin)
On Saturday I went along to Vitiloire (http://www.tours.fr/vitiloire/index.php). This is a consumer wine fair held in the centre of Tours, which celebrates Loire wines from Nantes by the Atlantic to the Côte de Forez deep in the Auvergne.
Vitiloire 2011 is the 9th edition and somehow it is the first one that I have managed to attend – a shame because it was brilliant with 116 producers showing their wines. It helped, of course, that the weekend was warm and sunny.
Time for lunch – an opportunity to graze from the many food stalls
Among the 116 producers present there were a good number that I did not know, so it was an excellent opportunity to try their wines rather than sticking with vignerons whose wines I already know. This worked very well as there were a number that impressed me.
Pierre Van Den Boom
First off was Pierre Van Den Boom (Domaine de l’Enchantoir) in Le Puy Notre Dame. I was impressed by his two Saumur Blancs (100% Chenin Blanc). The 2009 Domaine (6€) has lightly floral aromas with a hint a honey and an attractive texture with some weight. The 2007 Cuvée Madeleine (8.50€), which is vinified in oak, is more complex and mineral with the precision and austerity associated with the 2007 vintage. I also liked his 2009 Le Pied à l’étrier (7.20€), a red with the new Saumur Le Puy-Notre Dame appellation with its black fruits and structure. I thought this cuvée was more successful then the 2008 Clos du Petit Chavannes, a cuvée prestige where the oak dominated the fruit.
There were several producers from Jasnières and the Coteaux du Loir illustrating that, although this small area is nevertheless one of the Loire’s most dynamic. Pascal Janvier has a total of 9.5 hectares – six in Jasnières. His 2010 Coteaux du Loir (100% Chenin) is charming as well as precise and balanced with its 13 grams of residual sugar. The 2010 Cuvée des Silex, Jasnières is more austere with only 3.5 grams of residual sugar but has character, greater minerality and length. To finish the 2010 Cuvée Sainte Narcisse a delicately sweet Jasnières with 55 grams of residual sugar. This would make a very attractive aperitif or to serve with blue cheese even foie gras but not a dessert.
Régis Breton
My next new Jasnières producer was Régis Breton (Domaine Percheron), whose first vintage was 2008. Previously he had been maître de chai for Michel Boulay. Régis has five hectares – 3.5 in Jasnières. His wines are clean, precise and well made with my favourite being the quite austere 2008 Coteaux du Loir with 6 grams of residual.
Finally another Rémi but not from Jasnières but instead one of the small number of Noble Joué producers. Noble Joué has its own Touraine appellation and is made from three Pinots – Noir, Meunier and Gris. Rémi Cosson has four hectares of vines. His 2010 Noble Joué would be a delightful apéritif with its youthful, floral aromas, ripe texture balanced by crisp acidity. Cosson's Noble Joué is on the list of the Agnès Sorel restaurant in Genillé, where the 22€ menu is a bargain.
Rémi Cosson
Over its two days Vitiloire attracts some 20,000 visitors. I noted a high proportion of young enthusiasts – there to discover the Loire’s diversity and no sign of people out to get drunk.
The organisers of Vitiloire say that the 2011 edition attracted 25,000 visitors and that 7000 tasting glasses were sold@5€ each. Attendance was up by 20% on 2010.
Sunday, 24 April 2011
Restaurant Agnès Sorel@Genillé
2010 Noble Joué, Rémi Cosson
We were so impressed with the Restaurant Agnès Sorel in Genillé (under new ownership – Nicolas et Estelle Petit – for just over a year) when we ate there in December that we went back with friends last night. We had an excellent and very enjoyable meal. The three course menu at 22€ is extremely good value.
We kicked off with a bottle of the 2010 Noble Joué (AC Touraine Noble Joué – a blend of three Pinots: Noir, Gris and Meunier) from Remi Cosson in Esvres-sur-Indre – a delicate shade of pink, an attractive balance of ripe red fruits and refreshing acidity. Made a very good aperitif and went well with the smoked salmon and gravalax that most of us chose. CRM went for the aparagus soup, which was delicious.
Chapeau! beautifully presented aparagus soup
Main course was a choice of sea bream or nine-hour cooked belly of pork – two of us chose the fish and two the belly. The belly was excellent and was well partnered by Yannick Amirault's medium weight 2008 La Mine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, which is drinking well now but can be happily kept for a few years more.
We finished with CRM choosing the crèpe wrapped around a baked apple, while I went for the gauffre (waffle) with blackberry purée and icecream – a fitting finale.
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
Fête des vendanges du Touraine Noble Joué: 12th September
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| Lieu : Esvres-sur-Indre More details: www-ville-esvres.fr |
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