Wednesday, 2 December 2015
Two fine reds – Rochelles (Loire) and Gauby (Roussillon)
2010 La Croix de Mission, Anjou Villages Brissac, J.Y.A. Lebtreton
1999 Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Domaine Gauby
Two very good reds at a dinner with friends on Monday evening.
First the single vineyard 2010 La Croix de Mission, Anjou Villages Brissac from the Lebreton family at Domaine des Rochelles with lovely rich black fruits but still with the typical Loire freshness in the finish. La Croix de Mission is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon on very warm schist. It is one of the very few vineyard sites in Anjou, so therefore the Loire where Cabernet Sauvignon ripens consistently from year to year.
The second bottle was from the Roussillon and was 11 years older – 1999 Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Domaine Gauby. Unfortunately it proved impossible to get the cork out properly as it crumbled using the corkscrew. Despite this, after a couple of decantings to remove the majority of the cork dust, the wine was excellent – rich, spicy and complex.
The current blend of Gérard Gauby's Vieilles Vignes is Grenache Noir 25% from 55 year-old vines, Carignan 35% from vines aged 125 years, Mourvèdre 10% from 25 year-old vines and 30% Syrah from 20 year-old vines. Not sure whether the blend for the 1999 was very different, although presumably the vine ages will have changed.