Tuesday, 18 November 2014
A quartet from Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin
2010 L d'Or, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur Lie
(above and below)
A quartet of wines from top Muscadet producer Pierre Luneau-Papin – 2010 L d'Or, 2013 Froggy Wine, 2013 Folle Blanche and Luneau Brut.
L d'Or has been a flagship of the estate since it was first launched in 1976. It ages brilliantly and has, over the years, surprised many people who thought that Muscadet had to be drunk young – DYA (drink youngest available). This 2010 is still very young and fresh but with attractive weight. Although enjoyable to drink now it will gain complexity over the next decade or more.
2013 Froggy Wine, Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur lie
(above and below)
The Froggy Wine Muscadet is intended to dispel some of the mystique that often surrounds wine and to appeal to a younger generation as well as the export market. It should not, however, be dismissed as a frivolous wine. This is a well made Muscadet to either drink now but will keep several years. It calls out to be closed under screwcap.
2013 Folle Blanche, Gros Plant du Pays Nantais sur lie
Gros Plant has suffered from a poor reputation – lean and acid. However, well made and from good grapes it can be delicious as this wonderfully vibrant 2013 is. Yes it has acidity but is is ripe as is the fruit. Bring on the oysters – a brilliant match!
The Luneau sparkling is a blend of 40% Melon de Bourgogne, 30% Folle Blanche (Gros Plant), 20% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet (vinified as a white). The grapes come from a parcel of 40 year-old vines. It spends five months on its lees before being bottled for its secondary fermentation. It spends 18 to 24 months minimum sur latte.
I find this the least convincing wine from the Luneau stable. Although pleasant enough, it is too frothy and 'soapy' and not on the same level as the still wines – both Muscadet and the very good Folle Blanche.
(Bottles were given by the domaine as samples.)