Awards and citations:

1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award

Saturday, 5 September 2009

1999 Cuvée des Gênets, Savennières, Domaine Laureau

Damien Laureau is one of Savennières' younger vignerons, who along with a number of Anjou producers that have bought into the appellation and who have shaken up a previously rather complacent appellation. Cuvée des Gênets is made from Damien's younger vines of between 20-40 years old. This cuvée is largely made in stainless tank (90%) with just 10% in wood. The wine matures over 18 months.

Initial note: The 1999 has quite an evolved colour - light gold edging mid. Perfumed nose of evolved Loire Chenin – including quince, dry apricot and a hint of honey. Steely background and structure. Quince and yellow plum on palate flavours that follow through into an austere finish.

I opened this Savennières straight from the fridge – made an initial tasting note and then decanted it and left it to come up to room temperature. As it warmed up it became increasingly opulent balancing the austerity in the finish. In time aromas of beeswax developed and it was a good match with a buttery, pot roasted chicken. Classic Savennières!

This 1999 retails at £13.99, which is excellent value for a becoming mature Savennières. The value is dependent on not drinking this too cold. Probably 12-13˚C is fine and time in a decanter is likely to be beneficial. Show me equivalent value in Burgundy!

Click here for a fine and detailed report on Damien and Domaine Laureau by Bertrand Celce.

Sample kindly supplied by Les Caves de Pyrène (01483-455068 - trade; 01483-554750 - retail)


Anonymous said... wondering if an opulent wine such as this might go well with sea-bass? I was thinking Douro white initially.

Bob in Alberta.

Jim's Loire said...

Certainly worth trying Bob. How are you going to cook the sea bass. As I said the wine doesn't appear opulent when served too cold, the richness comes out as it warms up and with time but there is still the austerity in the finish. Worth decanting. Jim

Anonymous said...

Jim, just think pan-fried with a seasoning mix of ginger,crushed dried fennel seeds and coriander. When I was working in Paris at Georges V, we used to prepare with fennel flamed with cognac I think?


Jim's Loire said...

Bob I hadn't realised you were a chef. I reckon your panfried bass should work pretty well with the 1999.