Tuesday, 13 January 2015
Patrice Moreux – new Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre producer to me
At the French Wine Discoveries@Tobacco Dock today
Arnaud Moreux with 2014 Corty Caillottes
I always find it exciting to meet someone new who impresses me, although it is also rather chastening when the producer is not someone who is just starting out but someone whose family goes back to 1677 – for 14 generations. Step forward Arnaud Moreux of Patrice Moreux based at Les Loges, Pouilly-sur-Loire.
The wine history of the family dates back to 1702 on the Moreux side but even further on his mother's side – the Corty family – to 1677 in Pouilly. They have some 37 hectares. This includes six hectares in AC Sancerre split between Chavignol on the famous Monts Damnés slopes and a little further west in Crézancy. The rest is in Pouilly almost all Pouilly-Fumé around Les Loges, though they also have one hectare of Chasselas for Pouilly-sur-Loire. Their holdings in Pouilly-Fumé includes a 4.5 hectare South-facing monopole called La Loge aux Moines, which Arnaud told me is the first site in Pouilly where vines were planted.
Arnaud works with his brother Julien. Patrice Moreux is their father, who since 1996 has also owned a 30-hectare vineyard called Château des Vingtinières in the Côtes de Provence.
I was impressed with the entire range of Sancerres and Pouillys that Arnaud showed me today – impressed both with their concentration and balance. To celebrate their mother's side of the family they are launching two new wines this year – a Corty Silex and a Corty Caillottes – named after two of the three main soil types in Pouilly. We finished the tasting with the Cuvée Prestige Les Bénédictins from Sancerre, the 2012, and the 2011 from Pouilly-Fumé. Both have plenty of potential but need more time in bottle to harmonise and show their best.
Contact details: Les Loges, 58150 Pouilly-sur-Loire/
2014 Corty Silex