Friday, 11 October 2013
2013 Loire vintage: Pouilly-Fumé
Sauvignon Blanc in vines above Les Loges
Domaine Didier Dagueneau: 2013 Pur Sang
After spending yesterday in Sancerre we spent a concentrated Thursday morning in the Pouilly-Fumé vineyards. The situation here is largely similar to Sancerre with a pressure imposed by the threat of spreading rot to get the harvest in as quickly as possible. As on the west side of the Loire picking really got underway right at the end of last week or this Monday, although Château de Tracy apparently started on 26th September.
We did find one oasis of calm – Benjamin Dagueneau. He has a very small harvest due to incidence of rot but not feeling the need to rush. He started harvesting on Monday and expects finish next Monday. Yields are 15 hl/ha and 35 hl/ha. The juice we tried was wonderfully focused. Benjamin always lets the juice settle, after pressing, for at least two and a half days – this year three. This severe debourage is one of the secrets for the purity of the Domaine Didier Dagueneau wines.
The weather has turned noticeably colder.
Rot is a feature of 2013 but as yet the
rotten grapes taste clean – more noble than grey
but without the concentration of sugars you would expect
This year the Sauvignon Blanc skins are often thinner and more fragile than the Pinot Noir
Benjamin's new egg shaped wooden vat
A beautiful piece of sculpture!
Shoe cleaning equipment to be used
before entering the immaculate Dagueneau winery
Nina Schomakers and Didier Pabiot, father of Jonathan Nina's partner