Sunday, 27 January 2013
Millésime Bio: dinner with four producers@La compagnie des comptoirs
Thierry Jullien, président de l'Association Interprofessionnelle
des Vins Biologiques du Languedoc-Rousillon (AIVB-LR) (above and below)
Last night I was kindly invited to join the first night dinner of the press trip to this edition of Millésime Bio at La Companie des Comptoirs. This year the invited journalists etc. are from North America and include Tim Teichgraeber (freelance writer), David Rosegarten, Sue Straight and Michael Apstein, whose other job is a liver specialist.
The four growers included Thierry Jullien of Mas de Janiny and who is the president of l'Association Interprofessionnelle des Vins Biologiques du Languedoc-Roussillon. Thierry told me that numbers for the Salon are slightly up on last year. "We could have accepted more," he said, "but we prefer to grow slowly and remain at a manageable size. We don't accept anyone unless they are certified organic. This includes natural wine producers – they, too, have to be certified."
Every exhibitor at Millésime Bio has the same sized table, so there are no fancy stands. For Languedoc-Roussillon producers the price is 1300 euros for the three days and 1800 for producers from elsewhere. Thierry has fond memories of the first edition in 1993 when there were just a handful of producers present.
2009 Les Hauts de Laborie, Grés de Montpellier, Mas de Janiny
Soft and well balanced
The other producers were Christian Leperchois of Domaine des Carabiniers making Tavel and Lirac.
Christian Leperchois – a wearer of interesting shirts and wine producer
2011 Tavel, Domaine des Carabiniers: full bodied rosé with the alcohol in balance
2010 Lunar Apogé, Lirac, Domaine des Carabiniers: peppery, spicy black fruited Rhône
Christian's domaine usefully offers the opportunity for Terroirists to give themselves up!
2011 Joly Blanc – lives up to its name
made mainly from Grenache Blanc with some Roussanne
Unfortunately Virgile's red was too warm for a fair comment
André Leenhardt, Château de Cazeneuve, Pic Saint Loup
André Leenhardt of Château de Cazeneuve, who I visited last year on the Sunday before Millésimé Bio, came with magnums of excellent three wines. The rich and concentrated 2010 white Coteaux du Languedoc – mainly Roussanne and Grenache Blanc plus Viognier, Rolle and Muscat. For me the wines of the evening.
2007 Le Roc des Mates, Pic Saint-Loup (100% old Syrah)
2005 Le Sang de Calvaire, Pic Saint-Loup (pure Mourvèdre): lovely texture and balance
David Rosengarten looks to auction what is left of the 2007 Roc des Mates
Freelance writer Tim Teichgraeber