Last night we opened a bottle of this special cuvée produced to commemorate the 100 years of the Paul Buisse, négociant and producer at Montrichard. I have already posted my doubts about Paul’s L’Exceptionnel range. Unlike Les Exceptionnels, which are matured in concrete, this Cuvée du Centenaire spent 12 months in new barriques and on this showing certainly benefited with the 2003 vintage providing plenty of rich fruit and concentration to handle the wood, which was not present in the flavour. I fancy that the L’Exceptionnel range would benefit from time in wood to give the wines a chance to breathe, although I doubt whether they would support 100% new wood.
Unfortunately Paul's daughter is unlikely to take over the business, so it seems unlikely that it will continue as a family business for another 100 years. As Paul was born in 1947, it cannot be too long before he considers retirement.
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La Nouvelle République has a report today on the weekend's wine fair at Vouvray:
Foire aux vins : Vouvray ouvre le ban
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