Thursday, 12 January 2017
Two Saumur-Champignys from Domaine la Bonnelière
2011 Les Poyeux, Saumur-Champigny,
Domaine la Bonnellière
Over the last two nights we have tried a couple of Saumur-Champignys from Domaine la Bonnelière in Varrains. Their 2014 Les Poyeux was one of the top wines in Decanter's last year's Saumur-Champigny tasting. Thanks to the Foucault brothers the 15-hectare south-west facing Les Poyeux has become one of the appellation's most famous, if not the most famous, single vineyard. if you take the road from Chacé to Champigny it is on your left. Anthony and Cédric Bonneau age 30% of their les Poyeux in oak and the rest in stainless steel.
The 2011 has a good concentration of black fruits and is drinking very well now.
The dense and concentrated 2010 Franc 100%, however, needs more time in bottle to show its best. Franc spends 36 months in new wood. Unfortunately it uses an unnecessarily heavy bottle. I hope the Bonneaus will go for a lighter bottle for future vintages as the fashion and acceptance of heavy bottles has now past.
Although the Franc is interesting and a small production cuvée I'd opt to buy their very good value – just 8€ retail – Les Poyeux any day.
Anthony and Cédric Bonneau