Awards and citations:

1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award

Friday, 10 June 2016

Soirée de la modération pour 6 – 8th June 2016

2002 Triple Zéro, La Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot

On Thursday night we enjoyed a soirée de la modération with André Ribeirinho (Adegga), Beatriz Silva and two other friends. We warmed up with a bottle of 2002 Triple Zéro, which Jacky Blot had kindly given us following a very good  tasting with him at La Taille aux Loups in Husseau. The 2002 was still very fresh but with additional complexity from the bottle age.  

2008 Remus Plus, Montlouis, Domaine de la Taillé aux Loups

During the tasting with Jacky we had tried a Remus Plus in half bottle that was considerably more evolved than this very precise full sized one, which showed a touch of oak. It worked well with our fresh asparagus. The 2008 will clearly last a long time gaining further complexity in bottle. 

1995 Le Grand Clos, Saumur Champigny, 
Château de Villeneuve

The 1995 Grand Clos was one of the real stars of the evening – no sign of brickiness in the colour, complex, finely textured, beautifully balanced black fruits, structure and acidity with the simple roast chicken acting as foil. 

1989 Anjou Villages, Domaine Ogereau

For the other red with the main course we went back to 1989. Although full of ripe, succulent black fruit, the 1989 Ogereau suffered a little coming after Le Grand Clos as it showed less complexity on the evening. However, trying a small amount that remained the following morning it had softened and developed showing the rich, very ripe fruit that is a characteristic of 1989. Clearly I should have opened it earlier.   

2005 Le MD de Bourgeois, Sancerre, Henri Bourgeois

Le MD from Henri Bourgeois is always a solid banker and the 2005 from a sunny vintage, which we served with the cheese, was no exception. As always it was a particularly good match the goat's cheese – a Petit Lochois. Although the 2005 was a warm year the finish of this MD remains fresh and clearly has the potential to continue to age well for a number more years.

1989 Le Marigny Selection Grains Nobles, Vouvray, 
Domaine des Aubuisières

Just lovely! This Le Marigny showed why 1989 is such a great vintage with rich honeyed, apricot flavours, wonderful texture and the capacity to age for further decades.  

1963 Gould Campbell

To make André and Beatriz feel at home we concluded with this richly concentrated 1963. Initially it showed slightly spiky alcohol but this soon calmed down leaving a fine and complex Port.  

1970 Croft 

We had tried this 1970 early on Thursday morning as André and Beatriz's morning flight from Lisbon on Wednesday had been cancelled and the next flight to Nantes didn't get in until late evening, so it was just after 2am that they reached Epeigné. However still time to enjoy this 1970 Croft before retiring. Less rich than the 1960 this had very fine cherry fruit – a bottle with a lot of finesse. 

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