Wednesday, 8 August 2012
Christophe Gadais' 2011 Muscadet and Didier Chaffardon's L'Incrédule 2009
2011 Tradition, Domaine Les Grands Presbytères, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie
I recently received some samples from Christophe Gadais of Gadais Père et Fils in Saint Fiacre sur Maine. Christophe now has 47 hecatres in the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation. Before taking over the family domaine from his father Michel, Christophe was in charge of Laporte in Sancerre, part of Henri Bourgeois. I will be working my way through them over the next few days. Yesterday I looked at a couple of 2011s: Tradition, Domaine Les Grands Presbytères and the Domaine de la Tourmaline.
2011 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Domaine de la Tourmaline
Both wines are sur lie. The 2011 Tradition is light, crisp and fresh making a good apéritif or to accompany some oysters. In contrast the Tourmaline has more weigh, complexity and interest. It would, I think, work well with moules à crème or with crab.
2009 L'Incrédule, Vin de France, Didier Chaffardon
The last of a batch of samples from Les Caves de Pyrène, Didier Chaffardon's 2009 L'Incrédule was a very pleasant surprise. Chaffardon is based in Saint Jean de Mauvrets and has three hectares of vines – half Chenin Blanc and half Cabernet Franc. Initially his domaine had 10 hectares but he has reduced this to just three. I have tasted Chaffardon's Chenins on several occasions at the Renaissance tastings in Angers and have never been particularly impressed.
Happily his Cabernet Franc was an eye opener L'Incrédule 2009 has attractive rich, very ripe black fruits making it very easy to drink with rabbit slowly casseroled in a wine, mustard and cream sauce.