Clos Roche Blanche: my white stars of the vertical

 

1998 L'Arpent

I tasted from old to young, so I started with the 1998 L'Arpent, which is a field blend of Chenin Blanc (the majority), Arbois and grapes from a few red vines. This turned out to be one of my favourite wines. Sadly the vines have now been pulled out so L'Arpent is unfortunately no more. Light gold in colour this had just a touch of oxidation initially which only added to the complexity of the quite rich fruit with its aromas of white truffle. Lovely wine with some resemblance to a Romorantin which  should last at least another five or ten years or more because of its supporting acidity. 

The 1999 L'Arpent was leaner, more mineral, while the 2000 was between the two styles with quite a lean finish and the likely capacity to age further. 

Not only is there no more L'Arpent white but under the bizarre new appellation Touraine regulations currently being concocted a complex and intriguing wine like this would no longer be allowed. Clearly such wines are part of the local patrimony but will in future be outlawed from AC Touraine leaving only an ocean of Sauvignon Blanc.

My other white star of the tasting was the 1995 Sauvignon Blanc that was still rich and mouth filling with a subtle touch of asparagus but not aggressive and still wonderfully fresh in the finish. This is a brilliant example to show that some Touraine Sauvignons form the Cher Valley can age extremely fine. Just forget about trying to find the varietal character and just enjoy it as a complete wine.

The 1996 Sauvignon was also fine but not quite as good as the 1995.