Autumn colours in the Layon (October 2005)
Having looked at your wonderful blog and come across a post titled "Wineries not to be missed" I'm wondering if you could also give me some quick advice. I will also understand if you don't reply as you seem like you would be very busy and I'm also sure you get requests like this very often! I'll try anyway... Basically my boyfriend and I will be flying to Nantes from London and will stay for 3 nights. This means we have 2 full days to explore. Where should we base our selves? And is it possible to cover both Anjou and Samur, with one day for each? Or should we just pick one? I'm not sure how spread out the wineries are and if doing both would mean lots of driving. I'm a big fan of both Loire whites and reds, with the whites taking the lead just a little bit. Ideally I would also like to take in some pretty scenery on this trip. The information is definitely out there, but at the moment I'm so daunted by it! Thank you so much.
Best wishes,
*
Hotel du Mail
I'd be inclined to stay in one hotel for the whole weekend and I think it makes sense to stay in Angers. It's much bigger than Saumur with more going on and it is also closer to Nantes. You could easily spend one day wandering down to Saumur and back.
I would stay in the Hotel du Mail in the centre of Angers. It's a quiet family hotel in an 18th century building. Breakfast only but there are plenty of restaurants a short step away, so this isn't a problem. They will give you advice on where to eat and book a table for you. My favourite places to eat in Angers are Le Relais (02 41 88 42 51 – close to the station and a 10-15 minute walk from the hotel) and Le Petit Comptoir (02 41 88 81 57 – 2 minutes from the hotel). You need to book for both places. There is also Une Île, which has a Michelin star and is very good but more expensive.
From Angers you are a short drive from Savennières (about 20 mins), the Coteaux de l'Aubance (20 minutes) and about 30 - 40 minutes to the Coteaux du Layon.
Among the many producers I would recommend are:
L'Aubance
Victor et Vincent Lebreton, Domaine de Montgilet (Juigné-sur-Loire)
Jean-Yves et Anita Lebreton, Domaine des Rochelles (Saint-Jean des Mauvrets)
From Angers you are a short drive from Savennières (about 20 mins), the Coteaux de l'Aubance (20 minutes) and about 30 - 40 minutes to the Coteaux du Layon.
Among the many producers I would recommend are:
L'Aubance
Victor et Vincent Lebreton, Domaine de Montgilet (Juigné-sur-Loire)
Jean-Yves et Anita Lebreton, Domaine des Rochelles (Saint-Jean des Mauvrets)
Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut (Brissac-Quincé)
Jacques Beaujeau, Château la Varière (Brissac-Quincé)
Didier and Damien Richou, Domaine Richou (Mozé-sur-Louet)
Coteaux du Layon
Vincent Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau (Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay)
Claude Papin, Château Pierre-Bise (Beaulieu-sur-Layon – 02.41.78.31.44)
Philippe Germain, Château de la Roulerie (Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné)
Domaine Cady, (Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné)
Philippe Delesvaux, Les Essarts, La Haie Longue, 49190 St-Aubin de Luigne
Telephone: 02.41.78.18.71
Florent Baumard, Domaine des Baumard (Rochefort sur Loire)
Saumur to follow tomorrow.
Jacques Beaujeau, Château la Varière (Brissac-Quincé)
Didier and Damien Richou, Domaine Richou (Mozé-sur-Louet)
Coteaux du Layon
Vincent Ogereau, Domaine Ogereau (Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay)
Claude Papin, Château Pierre-Bise (Beaulieu-sur-Layon – 02.41.78.31.44)
Philippe Germain, Château de la Roulerie (Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné)
Domaine Cady, (Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné)
Philippe Delesvaux, Les Essarts, La Haie Longue, 49190 St-Aubin de Luigne
Telephone: 02.41.78.18.71
Florent Baumard, Domaine des Baumard (Rochefort sur Loire)
Saumur to follow tomorrow.
2 comments:
This is great -- thanks much for posting, Jim. I will be in both Saumur and the Layon in a few weeks so this is handy.
Question: what is the best / expected way to arrange a visit French vignerons? I've sent e-mails to a few producers (I don't speak French, but Google Translate has helped me compose the messages) but haven't received a reply. I'm sure it's bad form to just show up esp. at the smaller domaines. Is it best to call, even for an American like myself who only speaks one lousy language and may not be able to communicate well via phone?
Wicker Parker: Thanks for your comment. If they don't reply to emails I suggest that you phone them. Many will understand at least a little bit of English, so you can probably make yourself understood.
They are, however, getting better responding and using emails.
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