Georges Duboeuf and some 2009 Gamay

Joseph Berkmann and Georges Duboeuf

A couple of firsts today: I have never been to Langan's Brasserie before even though it has been open for more than 30 years and I had never met Georges Duboeuf. The occasion was the opportunity to taste the much vaunted 2009 Beaujolais – the full range of the Duboeuf Beaujolais range through from the simple Beaujolais to the Moulin à Vent.

I'm aware we are still not back to the Loire – but at least we have a grape variety – Gamay, which is quite widely planted in the Loire most notably in Touraine and the Côte Roannaise. The latter only about 80 kilometres to the west of the Beaujolias. The best of the Loire Gamays, from producers such as the Clos Roche Blanche in Touraine or Robert Sérol in the Côte Roannaise, are the equal of many Cru Beaujolais.

Georges Duboeuf explained why 2009 was climatically such as good vintage in the Beaujolais. It started with very good weather in May and a successful flowering at the end of May. The weather in August was also excellent and certainly hot – Georges explained that he measured 40˚C in the vineyard. The vintage started on 24th August. Yields were low between 38-45 hl/ha with no trace of rot.

First floor of Langan's Brasserie

There were 23 Beaujolais from 2009 to taste. I thought the quality was uneven, although some allowance should perhaps be made for recent bottlings. There were some very attractive wines but equally there were some with quite green tannins. My favourite wines had ripe concentrated fruit but good freshness in the finish. They included Domaine La Madona (Fleurie), Domaine Descombes (Morgon) and Saint-Amour Flower Label.

Georges Duboeuf

Lunch was uncomplicated but delicious: starting with fillet of smoked trout with remoulade salad and mustard sauce. We drank the 2005 Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Prestige, which was rather oaky, with this course. The main dish was a very flavoursome saddle of new season lamb matched with the 2009 Château des Capitans, AC Julienas, that showed very well at table – considerably better than in the tasting. It was deliciously easy drinking and considerable discipline was required not to drink two or three glasses, so knocking out the possibility of any work later in the afternoon. With the cheese we had the rich and powerful 2005 Cuvée Prestige, Moulin à Vent.