Candes Saint Martin – the western limit of Touraine
I gather that under the on-going reform of the French wine laws that AC Touraine is about to simplify the white grapes that can be included in in the appellation. In essence if the grape isn't called Sauvignon – either Blanc or Gris it's out. This means no more Menu Pineau or Chenin Blanc in the still white wines of AC Touraine. Already varieties like Malvoisie were barred and Chardonnay couldn't be used as a sole variety.
Although there is a case to be be made for barring Chardonnay as it's a grape from further east – Burgundian rather than Ligerian, I don't see that it makes sense for Touraine to tie itself so closely to Sauvignon Blanc – 'putting all their eggs in one supermarket trolley'!
For a start Sauvignon Blanc is apparently not the historic grape of the region but was first planted in the 1920s. Chenin Blanc and Menu Pineau have a greater claim to being amongst the traditional varieties of Touraine.
Sauvignon Blanc is badly affected by vine disease esca and its mortality rates are higher. Higher, some like Thierry Puzelat, claim than the more traditional Menu Pineau.
2009 Menu Pineau
Eastern Touraine is the varietal melting pot of the Loire with a spread of grape varieties that reflects its position at the crossroads between the Oceanic western Loire and the more contintental eastern section. A single variety is against regional tradition.
It is also a dangerously limiting option – remember what happened to Chardonnay! Once the darling of the wine drinking classes, Chardonnay saw its popularity fall as the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) tendency grew. Sauvignon Blanc is popular now but a SOS (Sod off Sauvignon) movement may soon appear!
The decision to go for only Sauvignon Blanc might have some logic in eastern Touraine where Sauvignon Blanc has established itself as the dominant variety. However, it makes no sense in western Touraine on the border with Saumur in the vineyards on the southern side of the Vienne around villages like Saint-Germain-sur-Vienne and Seuilly. Here, as in Chinon and Samur, it is Chenin Blanc planted on clay and limestone that is the traditional while variety of this area. Admittedly the volumes prodoced here are not large but there is a tradition of wine-making and pre-codification would have been considered part of Chinon. Indeed I gather that when the Chinon appellation was created in 1937 one of the mayors of these villages decided not to apply to join the nascent appellation because he feared that having this distinction would have resulted in higher taxes for his village. About a dozen years ago this area along the Vienne did apply to join the Chinon AC but were turned down.
So it would seem as things stand that whites from Seuilly and Saint-Germain-sur-Vienne etc. will no longer be entltiled to be called AC Touraine because they are made from Chenin Blanc and not Sauvignon Blanc. Of course should they decide to graft their Chenin over to Sauvignon Blanct then they will have the appellation. But why should they want to do that, when it is Chenin Blanc that is the traditional variety and adapted to their climate and soil – a question de terroir, n'est pas?
A possible solution might be to create a village appellation similar to Touraine Amboise, Axay-le-Rideau, Mesland or Noble-Joué and to make Chenin Blanc a or the permitted grape variety here. Perhaps we will see a Touraine-Seuilly or, more imaginatively, a Touraine-Rabelais as the great man was born in Seuilly and was much enmaoured by its wines. Doubtless the INAO will find rules that makes this impossible. A affair to follow!
I'm all in favour of appellation contrôlée as the protection of products' place names and sensible traditions is very important. However, all to often my impression is that the French AC system has become over-bureaucratic, too rigid and lacking the flexibility required for today's global market. Too often the wine legislators appear to be imposing petty rules that often go against the traditions of a particular area. Rules imposed either through pressure from more powerful appellations or for bureaucratic neatness. In short appellation contrôlée is becoming anal contrôlée.
10 comments:
Will this affect Jacky Preys?
Frank. As far as I know Jacky will be OK as it is Sauvignon – either blanc or Gris/Rose, which is also called Fie Gris – which is allowed under the new AC rules.
Hi,
Just a note on the problems with AC in general - as we have seen similar patterns in other appelations (for instance Pomerol). It seems to me to be a problem of internal competition within the AC where the more powerful groups sees an opportunity to strengthen their positions thorugh more exclusive access to the label of the appelation (it is of course tempting to blame the notorious French beureaucracy). In a global perspective i am sure that the whole appelation loses out from it. It is unfortunate and when it comes to the existence of Chenin Blanc I agree that it is a serious mistake since some of the best and most personal wines from Touraine are made from this grape.
I just found your impressive blog on this to me very interesting region through another good blog I am following (Mis en bouteille). So I hope that you don't mind if I pop in from time to time to ask some questions.
Hi Mansverk. Delighted you have found this blog and find it interesting. I'm sure you are right about internal competition between ACs. This explains why ACs like Coteaux du Giennois cannot have 100% Pinot Noir for instance. Although what threat someone in Sancerre, presumably, thinks CdeG poses is beyond me.
However, this doesn't explain the current bout of insanity in Touraine.
I don't know the answer to my own question, and speak from Northern California, not France, but does anyone even care whether the 'Touraine' AOC appears on a label? Export markets, at least around here, seem driven by producer reputation above all else. Nevertheless, I agree with all of your points. Picking on the AOC decision-makers just gets easier and easier.
Anon. I agree it is the name of the producer that is crucial and why more producers are optioning out of the AC system.
Sorry that should be 'opting out'. Too late at night!
First: What does "ligerian" mean? Second: Great post. Loved the new use of SOS as an acronym, it is already happening with NZ (I'm much more interested in Kiwi Pinot Gris than Sauvignon). What is wrong with the French and their wine laws? Don't mind to shoot themselves in the foot I guess. But in the end the French bureaucrats can do what they like and it will not make a difference to conscientious winemakers. It is the producers who have the heart to balk at the AC system when they have to that produce some of the best wine in France. Being able to put 'Touraine' on a label shouldn't (I hope) make a difference in anyone's ability to make a living.
Jean-Paul. Thanks for your message.
Ligerian – is an adjective meaning of the Loire. It is true that there are ways around the rules – opting for the new vin de table regime is one option. You are right for well-established producers the appellation Touraine may well not be important but for less well known producers it will have considerable importance.
Yeah I see your point.If you make a wine in a particular place you should be able to put the name of that place on your label because it can easily be a part of your wine's brand identity. Funny how terroir is reduced to the status of a brand once it is mentioned on a label. Maybe every AC should have two designations, one for geography and one for tradition. like AC Touraine and AC Touraine Tradition. I dunno that's bound to get on someone nerve too. What's wrong varietal labeling on the front of a bottle. If they just put AC Touraine and the cepage on the front label they'd be serving the wine drinking populace best right?
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