Christophe Baudry of Domaine de la Perrière, Cravant-les-Coteaux AC Chinon released his first vintage of Grand Vin in 1998 – not the easiest of vintages to start with, although the 1998 Grand Vin was a success for the vintage. With the tie up with Jean-Martin Dutour at Domaine de la Roncée to form Baudry-Dutour, this cuvée was dropped along with its white equivalent, Confidentielle.
Christophe's Grand Vin came from vines over 50 years old with malolactic in barrel and at least 12 months barrel aging. The 2001, a good rather than great wine, is currently drinking well and may well be around its best now as I not convinced it will get better, although nor do I think it is about to immediately fall off its perch. Mid weight and well balanced fruit and acidity, it worked very well with an excellent pheasant bought from Northfield Farm's stall in Borough Market, London. Northfield Farm has long been excellent and was amongst the earliest stalls at Borough Market but I don't remember them doing game before. I fancy this is the influence of the arrival of Bob, a great game specialist who previously used to be with Wyndhams the poultry shop on the edge of the market opposite the Brindisa tapas bar. But Wyndhams closed at the beginning of this year. Bob had previously worked for Allens.
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