Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Sunday, 1 March 2015

Recently tasted: 2009 Sancerre and a couple of South Africans

2009 Dionysia, Sancerre 


It was very good to retaste this wine that I wrote about back in July 2010 reporting on the results of a tasting in Sancerre back in June 2010:

'Dionysia, Vin d'Homme 2009
This is from Auguste Natter, the son of Henry and Cécile. Auguste has 3.7 ha in Montigny, the furthest west commune in AC Sancerre. Picked by machine from young vines planted on argilo-calcaire yielding 37 hl/ha. Although in a leaner style (just over 13% alc), this has attractive, delicate ripe fruit, concentration and length.' (July 2010)

Over the past more than four years the 2009 Dionysia has added more weight, while retaining its ripe, delicate fruit. Still quite youthful – very attractive drinking now. 

2010 Premier Cuvée from Graham Beck, South Africa 
Blanc de Blancs – 100% Chardonnay
(above and below)


Attractive South African fizz from Graham Beck – nicely citric, vibrant and fresh with some length. Made a good apéro. 


2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, The Game Reserve, Graham Beck

This was the second of two bottles given to me to taste by Nicolette Waterford on behalf of Graham Beck at the end of the remarkable Keith Prothero lunch. I much preferred Beck's 2010 Premier Cuvée (above). The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon was just too toasty and oplulent for my taste. Initally impressive it soon became tiring to drink. It would, however, be interesting and, perhaps fairer, with another two years or so in bottle. 

With about a third remaining in the bottle I slowly reduced this, with the addition of another unfinished red, using the slow technique learned from Vincent Simon (le cuisinier de campagne). This proved to be excellent for deglazing the tin after roasting a very good piece of a leg of pok bought from The Butchery in London's Forest Hill.

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