The wine journalist Jim Budd has waged a campaign against Domaine des Baumard for 3 years now. The thrust of his ire is the concept of the innovative cold pressing technique and what he perceives to be an injust advantage that Domain Baumard has over other growers in the region.’
b) At the time of picking what was the average potential alcohol of the grapes from the 2eme tri picked around 25th October?
c) What percentage of your total Quarts de Chaume harvest did the 1er tri represent?
d) What was the total volume of grapes picked during the two tris and from what area of vines?
e) What is the exact volume of 2012 Quarts de Chaume that you have declared and from what area of vines?
f) You say: ‘Judicious and laborious manual selection, in conjunction with cold pressing, has produced juices in 2012 that meet the criteria of the AOC.'
‘What a strange world we live in where a journalist can defame a business based upon spurious technical points of which he has absolutely no practical understanding. Surely it is normal practise, if not common decency, for an honest journalist to offer the right to reply before publishing such damaging allegations?'
Vous êtes manifestement inconscient de l'inconvenance de votre démarche et du ton que vous employez.
Vous semblez disposer de beaucoup de temps, pour ma part, j'interromps là tout échange, j'ai du travail.
'Vin De Glacière – Wine from the Ice Box
'We recently received a rave review for our 2011 Vin De Glacière (VDG for short) from the Wine Spectator (90 points) and this reminded me that I have not done a post on the VDG since 2008! It is time to correct this dry spell as we prepare for our 26th vintage of VDG!
If you are just now joining our program, the VDG is a cryo-extracted wine. Cryo-extraction is a technique mimicking naturally frozen ice wine. The handpicked grapes for cryo-extracted wine are stored in cold storage while ice wines (which have been made for over 200 years) use Mother Nature to concentrate grape sugar. The concentration process is fairly simple; when a grape gets frozen, the water freezes first and the sugar last – this is reversed when the grapes are thawed. If you follow me, when you thaw the grapes while pressing, you end up extracting all the sugar first, leaving the water frozen in the press thus concentrating your juice.
There are several advantages to the cryo-extraction technique versus the true ice-wine method. Firstly, making ice wine in Germany or Canada (the only two countries that have laws insuring that you are getting a “true” ice wine) is a bit like playing Russian roulette; some years you get a good frost, some you don’t and you lose the crop. Secondly, with cryo-extraction, the timing of the frost is predictable; no need to get up at midnight on Christmas day (though making a “Christwein” is somewhat romantic at first glance) and it is less likely to have half the crop eaten by birds. Predictability allows a winery to get a better yield every year, which should be reflected in the price (our VDG sells for $14 vs $100 for a true ice wine). Thirdly, the chemistry is different with cryo-extracted wine; the wines will be a bit tarter (picked earlier) and less “funky” (no botrytis and other fungal influence). We actually make both styles and but for an everyday pleasure, the VDG is perfect for the price.'
After 25 years does Nicolas Quillé, whose CV includes time of general manager at Randall Grahm's Bonny Doon, still not understand the process that allows him to make his Vin De Glacière?
From the French version of Florent's response:
'Il ne peut être tiré des photos de Monsieur Budd aucune conclusion probante. Ni de leur localisation.'
The photos I took on the afternoon of 9th October 2012, along with the published camera data showing the time they were taken, indicate very clearly where they were taken. 'Ni de leur localisation' is Florent Baumard accusing me of manipulating photos to 'defame' Domaine des Baumard?
Incidentally the first photos of grapes from the Domaine des Baumard were taken and posted in 2010 not in 2009.
'certainly instigated by other parties'
The Quarts de Chaume is a very special site. I have made no secret that I fully support the moves embodied in the November 2011 décret to make the regulations more rigorous than before. With small yields, fine vineyard management and by taking risks it possible to make great sweet wine here in most years. If that means in very testing vintages like 2012, no Quarts de Chaume is made then so be it. What is in the bottle should reflect what was on the vine, so I'm certainly against the use of cryoextraction or cold-pressing (whatever it is called) in the Quarts de Chaume. It is simply not relevant whether or not it is used by some of the great estates in Sauternes/Barsac. The Loire does not have to ape any other region.