Awards and citations:

1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award

Friday, 2 February 2018

2014 Haute Densité, Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy

The 2014 Haute Densité is the second of the samples kindly sent over by Château de Tracy. As the name of the cuvée implies this comes from a parcel of vines planted with a high number of vines per hectare – 17,000 vines per hectare rather than the more customary 7000 vines per hectare. This parcel is to the east of the small hamlet of Bois Gibault. 

Explanation from the Château de Tracy website

'This wine is produced from vines planted in high density (17,000 vines per hectare; the standard density for the appellation is 7,000 vines per hectare). Competition between the vines is therefore greater. As each plant has to draw its reserves from deep within the soil, the roots plunge more deep, increasing consequently the contact with the stone (more terroir effect in the wine). Vigorous growth is controlled and the plants are healthier.
The specific pruning of the plants is the result of rigorous research and intensive work on the vines (such as disbudding and thinning out of leaves). The vegetation is less dense, far less vulnerable to disease and each plant bears a maximum of two or three bunches (1 plant produces 1 glass of wine). The resulting grapes have a very concentrated.'
The 2014 has considerably more concentration, intensity and complexity than the domaine 2016. It does, however, share the same precision of flavour. It is important not to serve this wine too cold. If chilled in a fridge it should come out a good half hour before serving. Best if possible to find somewhere for Haute Densité to remain cool rather than using a fridge. Of course this may not be an option. This wine could also be decanted with advantage. The 2014 Haute Densité can be enjoyed now but equally will keep for a good decade or more. 
Unfortunately this cuvée uses an unnecessarily heavy bottle.

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