The Adegga Christmas 2016 Wine Market
The Premium Room
When I taste and drink wine I place a lot of importance on the texture of a wine – the mouth-feel, so in my notes on these wines you will find more comments on texture rather than trying to link flavours to particular fruits, etc.
It goes without saying that my notes and thoughts on these wines are based on tasting without food. Drinking wine with food makes a large difference – tannins and acidity that are too apparent when tasting are softened and hidden.
When André Ribeirinho asked me to write up this edition’s Premium Room tasting for the Adegga website, he kindly offered me a fee. However, I declined the fee as I didn’t want this report to be seen as an advertorial. Also I have been privileged to be invited on a number of occasions by the Adegga team to taste the Premium wines, so I am very pleased to have this opportunity to say thank you.
1. Alfrocheiro and spends 36 months sur latte. Initially pungently yeasty, floral notes develop in the glass. This is crisp clean, apéro sparkling wine with some depth.
2. Quinta do Sibio
3. Quinta da Alorna
4. Quinta Maria Izabel
Mid lemon colour, a lightly floral nose, attractive mouth texture, touch of oak with good freshness and length. Can be drunk now but will benefit from further time in bottle.
8. Monte da Touriga Nacional 2012
Last July I visited Mouchão. Here is a report on the visit from my Jim’s Loire blog:
11. Quinta da Carvalhais Reserva Tinto 2011
12. Casa Ferreirinha Quinta da Leda 2014
Casa Ferreirinha is also part of the Sogrape group and is their high quality Douro brand. The winemaker is Luís Sottomayor. The 2014 is a blend of Still youthful colour, lovely soft texture, structure and some tannins in the long finish. The 2014 has length and power but also delicacy – a fine bottle now but can certainly be kept.
13. Quinta dos Murças VV47 2012.
Batuta was born in 1999, so we were very privileged through Dirk Niepoort’s generosity in providing this vertical tasting of this Douro wine from 1999 to 2014 with just two vintages not shown – 2002 and 2006.
Batuta comes mainly from north-facing very old vineyards from Quinta do Carril, where the vines are more than 70 years old. Grapes also come from older vines (about 100 years old) near Quinta de Nápoles, the home of the Niepoort Douro winery. Fermentation takes place in cone-shaped stainless steel vats and wooden barrels. Batuta is aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, with 25% new oak.
This vertical tasting again brought to the fore Dirk Niepoort’s signature – the remarkable delicacy and finesse in his wines. Batuta is far removed from some Douro wines that are over-extracted with too much tannin. Some of these Batutas recalled the finesse of good Pinot Noir – little wonder that Dirk is a big fan of Burgundy.
16. 2001 (magnum)
18. 2004 (magnum)
Still youthful mid-plum colour, spicy red fruits nose, sweet texture, structure in finish, complexity and length. Integrated tannins in finish. Lovely wine.
20. 2007 (magnum)
28. Quinta do Noval Vintage 1994
One of the most iconic Douro Port estates sited above Pinhão in the Upper Douro bought by AXA Millésimes in 1993. Spicy cherry nose. Spirit shows a little but some attractive cherry flavours. Length and power. The 94 needs more time with some spirit still showing through in the finish.
29. Noval Colheita 1976
Walnut colour, nutty austerity, quite austere texture and power. Touch of appealing harshness with great length – great. This is very fine and although admittedly it is 18 years older than the Vintage tasted above it reinforces my feeling that Colheitas tend to be more interesting and complex than Vintage Ports.
30. Calém Colheita 1961
Calém along with Barros, Burmester and Kopke are now part of the Sogevinus group.
The 1961 has a delicate mid-gold colour with aromas and flavours of nuts and dried herbs, good concentration along with lovely finesse too. An excellent and delicious Port.
Burmester along with Barros, Calém and Kopke are now part of the Sogevinus group.
Mid burnished gold, still rich dried fruit – apricots and sultanas, great finesse and delicacy, length. A glass to sip and enjoy at the end of a good meal. Lovely!
Kopke along with Barros, Burmester and Calém are now part of the Sogevinus group.
The first of the two pre-Second World War Ports, this comes from old vines at Quinta das Carvalhas in the Upper Douro on the south bank of the river. Mid gold colour, still quite sweet dried fruits on palate. While attractive the 1938 doesn't have the complexity and finesse of some of the other Colheitas here.
Deep burnished walnut colour, concentration of sweet dried fruits, apricots and raisins allied with lovely austerity. Very long, complex finish. This has that fantastic combination of fruit and almost painful austerity that I love in old fortified wines whether they are Ports, Jerez or Madeira.