Wednesday, 28 August 2013
Decanting aged Cabernet Franc
The September 2013 edition of Decanter magazine carries my article, which celebrates the capacity of top Loire Cabernet Franc to age brilliantly. The article features a fabulous vertical of Bourgueil back to an amazing 1893, which was laid on by Philippe Boucard at Lame Delisle Boucard with aid from the Gambiers of Domaine des Ouches. It also links in with a fascinating tasting of Chinon held in September 2011 with wines from many Chinon properties going back to 1934.
Several people, including Guillaume Lapaque picked up on the article on Facebook and Twitter, especially the 1893 Bourgueil to which I gave 100 points. As a rule I'm no fan of awarding points to wines whether it is on a 20 point, 100 point or 1000 point scale. I do, however, agree that for comparative tastings for magazines and wine competitions they are necessary.
In this instance it is Decanter's policy to use a 100-point scale for their articles. Given the history and the quality of the 1893 it would have made no sense not to give the wine 100 points but I'm not convinced that such a score makes very much sense nor does it add to the remarkable experience of the two tastings.
Tasting back to 1893 deep in the cellars of Lamé Delisle Boucard