Thursday, 15 September 2011
Champault's La Pérpetuelle 1995-2006 star of RSJ Eastern Delights tasting
La Pérpetuelle 1995-2006 Claude & Laurent
On Monday there was a tasting and dinner at the RSJ Restaurant. Called Eastern Delights we showed eight wines from the Central Vineyards – five white and three reds – with the aperitif coming from Touraine.
The undoubted star of the tasting was the very rare and unusual La Pérpetuelle from Claude and Laurent Champault (Roger Champault et Fils). This is a red 'Sancerre' (100% Pinot Noir) made on the solera system. The Champaults use a 600 litre barrel which they first filled with the 1995 vintage (from 50 year old vines) – the year they started. Each year they draw off 200 litres and then top it with the current vintage.
The 1995-2006 La Pérpetuelle has a lovely spicy, cedar wood nose with richly rounded, long lasting fruit on the palate. Could be mistaken for a good Burgundy although it has the Loire's characteristic thread of acidity. This was a rare treat for as far as I know the Champaults don't sell this cuvée. Instead they keep some for their own consumption and give the rest away to friends and clients. It would be interesting to taste the 1995-2007 to see how much difference the addition of 200 litres of the lighter 2007 vintage made. Our 1995-2006 may have been particularly good because of the relatively high percentage of the fine 2005 vintage and the 200 litres of the reasonably successful 2006.
La Pérpetuelle's back label
The wines tasted were:
2009 Esprit du Clos, Touraine Sauvignon, Vincent Roussely
2010 Menetou-Salon, Champault
2010 Reuilly Les Lignis, Les Desmoiselles Tatin
2010 Quincy Domaine des Ballandors, Jean Tatin
2010 Pouilly-Fumé, Sebastien Treuillet
1999 Château de Tracy, Pouilly-Fumé
2009 Reuilly 'La Commanderie', Les Desmoiselles Tatin
2010 Sancerre Rouge, Les Pierris, Roger Champault et fils
La Pérpetuelle Claude & Laurent Champault