Pizzaman Fabrice in action at Saint-Georges-sur-Cher (14 August 2008)
After our day in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil we decide to have a bottle of Charles Joguet’s 1988 Clos de la Dioterie (Chinon) as well as the 2003 La Croix Boissée that Bernard Baudry kindly gave us at the end of our visit. We had already arranged that it was going to be pizzas this evening. Every Thursday Fabrice (tel: 06.63.52.00.43) and his mobile pizza oven are in front of the church in Saint–Georges-sur-Cher. Fabrice is in a different place each night of the week: Monday (Montrichard), Tuesday (Meusnes), Wednesday (Saint-Romain) and Friday (Contres). His pizzas are certainly recommended, although perhaps not the ideal match for the Dioterie.
The 1988 Dioterie is in fine shape: still bright coloured not looking its nearly 20 years with lovely delicate brambly fruit and long flavoured. It is showing all the finesse and delicacy that made Charles Joguet’s reputation. Equally it is a reminder of how good the 1988 Loire vintage can be both in reds and sweet whites. It has had the misfortune to be eclipsed by the two vintages that followed: the superb 1989 and, nearly as fine, 1990.
Clos de la Dioterie 1988, Chinon, Charles Joguet
Following Charles Joguet’s retirement in 1997 I have found the domaine patchy. In particular I remember tasting the range at one of Decanter's Fine Wine Encounters in the Landmark Hotel, London. Although I can’t at the moment remember the year I do remember finding the wines very disappointing. With a new team in place it is definitely time to reassess the recent releases.
The 1988 Dioterie proved to be a hard act to follow for the 2003 Croix Boissée, which has all the power and richness of the very hot 2003 vintage but is at the moment decidedly clumsy in comparison to the Dioterie.
Still to come from August visits with The Wine Detective our day in Montlouis: François Chidaine, Stéphane Cossais, Les Loges de la Folie and Jacky Blot.
Charles Joguet, La Dioterie, 37220 Sazilly
Tel: 02.47.58.55.53
Email: contact@charlesjoguet.com
Web: www.charlesjoguet.com
Fabrice Pizza: tel: 06.63.52.00.43
After our day in Chinon, Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil we decide to have a bottle of Charles Joguet’s 1988 Clos de la Dioterie (Chinon) as well as the 2003 La Croix Boissée that Bernard Baudry kindly gave us at the end of our visit. We had already arranged that it was going to be pizzas this evening. Every Thursday Fabrice (tel: 06.63.52.00.43) and his mobile pizza oven are in front of the church in Saint–Georges-sur-Cher. Fabrice is in a different place each night of the week: Monday (Montrichard), Tuesday (Meusnes), Wednesday (Saint-Romain) and Friday (Contres). His pizzas are certainly recommended, although perhaps not the ideal match for the Dioterie.
The 1988 Dioterie is in fine shape: still bright coloured not looking its nearly 20 years with lovely delicate brambly fruit and long flavoured. It is showing all the finesse and delicacy that made Charles Joguet’s reputation. Equally it is a reminder of how good the 1988 Loire vintage can be both in reds and sweet whites. It has had the misfortune to be eclipsed by the two vintages that followed: the superb 1989 and, nearly as fine, 1990.
Clos de la Dioterie 1988, Chinon, Charles JoguetFollowing Charles Joguet’s retirement in 1997 I have found the domaine patchy. In particular I remember tasting the range at one of Decanter's Fine Wine Encounters in the Landmark Hotel, London. Although I can’t at the moment remember the year I do remember finding the wines very disappointing. With a new team in place it is definitely time to reassess the recent releases.
The 1988 Dioterie proved to be a hard act to follow for the 2003 Croix Boissée, which has all the power and richness of the very hot 2003 vintage but is at the moment decidedly clumsy in comparison to the Dioterie.
Still to come from August visits with The Wine Detective our day in Montlouis: François Chidaine, Stéphane Cossais, Les Loges de la Folie and Jacky Blot.
Charles Joguet, La Dioterie, 37220 Sazilly
Tel: 02.47.58.55.53
Email: contact@charlesjoguet.com
Web: www.charlesjoguet.com
Fabrice Pizza: tel: 06.63.52.00.43
2 comments:
Hi Jim
I don't have the history with Joguet that you have, but would agree that the domaine has taken off in recent vintages, and I would point to 2003 as a significant vintage. This was when François-Xavier Barc, who had worked at the domaine during the late 1990s but left to gain some experience elsewhere, returned to take up the joint position of viticulturist and winemaker. I suppose the character of the 2003 and 2005 vintages may play some role in my perception (it would be interesting to know which vintages you were not impressed with), but wines from 2004 and 2006 are also pretty good. I think, under Barc, Charles Joguet is once more one of the most significant domaines of Chinon. Sadly I won't have the chance to taste them at the Decanter tasting this November (Barc has been a regular attender the last few years) as I plan to save my pennies for a visit to the Salon in February instead.
Hi Chris. I agree it is my impression that the wines have improved since the return of François-Xavier Barc and the disappointing vintages were prior to 2003. Look forward to meeting you at the 2009 Salon.
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