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Monday, 5 April 2010

Sancerres from Matthias and Emile Roblin


Matthias and Emile Roblin, producers of Sancerre in Mainbray, recently kindly sent me samples of their current wines to try as I didn't have time to taste their range at the Salon des Vins de Loire. Having tasted five of the six bottles it is time to post some notes. 

Notes on the Rosé 2009, Blanc 2009 and 2008, Rouge 2008 and 2008 La Grande Côte de la Vallée to follow.

Overall I have been impressed with the five wines. The two 2009s – Sancerre Blanc and Sancerre Rosé were delicious. The white exuberantly floral – white flower – and fresh. I'm sometimes doubtful about bottling Sancerre very early but this clearly worked with its freshness and vibrancy. In contrast the 2008 white was much more austere and mineral – a lot less flattering than the 2009 and less approachable. Two friends found this just too austere and astringent with the acidity hard to take. I found it reasonably typical of 2008 precise but I can see that some people would find it just too unyielding.

The 2009 Rosé is one of the few Sancerre rosés that I have really enjoyed. Palish pink it is vibrant with fresh raspberry flavours along with a touch of strawberry making it an excellent aperitif. 

The two reds are also good but quite different in style. Medium weight, the accent for straight 2008 is very much on the easy drinking Pinot Noir fruit. It worked surprisingly well with veal kidneys in a cream and mushroom sauce. La Grand Côte de la Vallée is more a medium vin de garde, although if decanted it is drinking well now. It has more concentration, structure and complexity than the straight domaine red and is aged in oak giving it a smoky character.   



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