Recently tasted et bus: Jacky Preys – Pinot Noir and Fié Gris

2007 Pinot Noir Le Piloris

Jacky and Pascal Preys demonstrate with this delicious, light Pinot Noir that Loire Valley Pinot does not have to ape Burgundy to be good. In no sense is this a grand vin or one to lay down but it shows what can be done in a difficult year for reds if you treat the fruit that the vintage gives sensibly. With its red fruits, light structure and refreshing acidity this is best served cool and enjoyed with friends. It's a good match with salmon – I drank it with salmon fish cakes – and other meaty fish. I'd drink it in the next year or so.

2007 Cuvée Fie Gris, Vieille Vigne AC Touraine

This is Domaine Jackie Preys best known wine. Made from the Fié Gris or Sauvignon Rose/Sauvignon Gris Jacky happened to have a parcel of some of the last vines existing of this variety. The 2007 Fié Gris is attractively aromatic with marked grassy and citric scents, clean, mineral palate and with quite austere acidity in the finish, so typical of this vintage. I love the precision and austerity of the 2007s but do acknowledge that others find them challenging.

Unfortunately the appellation contrôlée system encourages uniformity rather than encouraging diversity and finding a place for old Loire varieties such as the Fié Gris and the Menu Pineau. Fortunately due to Jacky and a few other Fié Gris has survived. Paul Buisse has Sauvignon Rose planted above his premises in Montrichard. Whether the new owners, Pierre Chainier, will continue with this variety remains to be seen. Hopefully Pierre and his sons will see the wisdom of having a point of difference within the sea of Sauvignon. Eric Chevalier has an excellent VDP Fié Gris (see below) and the Henri Bourgeois Cuvée Jadis is made from Sauvignon Rose/Gris planted on Le Monst Damnés.

Bertrand Celce tells the story behind Jacky Preys' Fié Gris on his excellent Wine Terroirs site.

(Part of some samples Jacky gave me to try when I dropped in to see him during the harvest in late-September.)

Jacky and Pascal Preys
Domaine Jacky Preys
536 Rue Debussy, 41130 Meusnes
Tel: 02.54.71.00.34 Email: doaminepreys@wanadoo.fr
Web: www.domainepreys.com

••

Eric Chevalier 2008 Fié Gris VDP
This was the most interesting wine I tasted at the Boutique Wineries tasted held at BMA House on 22nd September – the day before we left for the Loire. Will write notes on this wine and a few others when I return to London and am reunited with my tasting notes.

In the UK Eric's Fié Gris is available through SWIG, 188 Sutton Ct Rd
London, W4 3HR, United Kingdom Tel: 020-8995 7060

Eric Chevalier
Domaine de l'Aujardière, 44310 Saint-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu
Tel: 06.27.43.81.91 email: eric@chevalierdomaine.com
Web: www.chevalierledomaine.com