Thick hedge of vines – where are the grapes? Just by Laurent Bonneau's neatly tended vines in Vernou was a parcel of rather neglected vines – broken wires with the vines allowed to grow into a vigorous hedge with so much luxuriant leaf cover that it was virtually impossible to see any bunches of grapes without parting the dense foliage.
Bunches deep inside – well protected from any sunYou might wonder how these grapes will ever ripen. The answer is that they probably won't and it won't matter too much as the grapes will be used to make cheap sparkling Vouvray. The lack of sunshine and ripeness will be made up by adding sugar – thus supporting les betteravistes (beet farmers) from Northern France.
70% of all Vouvray is sparkling. Permitted yields for still Vouvray is 52hl/ha, while for sparkling it is 65hl/ha, so for many there is a clear economic incentive to opt to grow grapes for les bulles. This 'hedge' style producer probably makes more money than someone who looks after their vines carefully and is determined to make the best wine they can. Our 'hedge' vigneron will have much lower labour costs due to their minimal intervention in the vineyard. Weeds will normally be controlled by weedkillers, pests by a range of insecticides. and the hedge effect aided by artificial fertilisers. Their yields will be substantially higher. Normally the grapes will be picked by machine.
In contrast: well exposed and separate Chenin Blanc bunches
It costs money and a lot of time to look after a vineyard properly and producers who adopt this approach normally seek to have much lower yields than the maximum allowed by the appellation rules.
In contrast: well exposed and separate Chenin Blanc bunches It costs money and a lot of time to look after a vineyard properly and producers who adopt this approach normally seek to have much lower yields than the maximum allowed by the appellation rules.
•••
This week's Loire weather
After a rather unsettled week, the forecast for this coming week in the Loire looks good with fine weather so far expected for the whole week. In comparison to last year Tours has already had 1723 hours of sunshine in 2009 compared to 1463 hours to the end of September 2008 and is not far off already overtaking the total for the whole of the year – 1754 hours.
After a rather unsettled week, the forecast for this coming week in the Loire looks good with fine weather so far expected for the whole week. In comparison to last year Tours has already had 1723 hours of sunshine in 2009 compared to 1463 hours to the end of September 2008 and is not far off already overtaking the total for the whole of the year – 1754 hours.
Interesting comments received from Thierry Merlet:
ReplyDeleteInteresting comments of yesterday that really reflect today’s (and yesterday’s) viticulture in the Loire and world over : the more you produce the more you make money.
Unless you are in an upper price segment (10euros per bottle and over) the less you produce the more you lose.
It’s been a while now that I think that overall Touraine is under cropping, look at Champagne (100+hl/ha), Alsace (90hl/ha), NZ SB (90+hl/ha), AUS reds (100+hl/ha). And I don’t know about Chile and Argentina…
Touraine should simplify its vineyards, produce higher yields and invest into better wineries. At this stage, grape transformation is the key. Buyers want a well made typical Loire wine at a low price (under 3E per bottle).
Another great example to follow is the Gers. The maths are the key is this globalized world.
Of course this doesn’t apply to vignerons who already have their clientele and that are well established.
PS A great terroir is a terroir that makes money!