Praia AdragaI know they are not in the Loire but these are my two favourite restaurants in and near to Lisbon and to go to the two on consecutive days has been a really treat. After all Lisbon does begin with an L!
First to the restaurant at Praia da Adraga, which is on the Atlantic coast not far from Sintra and one of the most westerly points in Europe. Adraga is a small unspoilt cove, down from the village of Almocageme and the one restaurant does sensational grilled fish, as well as crab and clams. The clams are best done in the style – ameijoas à bulhão pato: a little like a moules marinières with garlic, coriander and a little chilli. Nothing is fancy here but everything is brilliantly and perfectly cooked.
Yesterday the restaurant was quiet and we were lucky to have a table by the window, which gives you a sensational view out over the sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean – next stop the US of A. Ameijoas à bulhão pato to begin with followed by grilled sea bass for two with a fine bottle of 2007 Muros Antigos Alvarinho Vinho Verde. In the Loire the natural choice would be a good bottle of Muscadet but this is a most acceptable substitute. Difficult to see how life could get better.
View from our table in the restaurant@Praia Adraga
Then this evening off to O Galito in Carnide, now a suburb of Lisbon but which once must have been a quite village away from the bustle of Lisbon. Here you will find wonderful Alentejo cooking married to a sensational wine list. Dona Gertrudes remains in charge of the kitchen while her son is increasingly ceding the front of house to his energetic son. It's a small restaurant, so essential to book on Saturdays and probably very wise for the other nights of the week. It is also open at lunchtime but closed Sundays and for holidays.
2006 Pêra Manca
Tonight we enjoyed sopa de cação (shark soup) then migos de espargos c/ lombo porco alentejano grelhado (migos is a bit like a light bread dumpling and, in this case, mixed with asparagus). Also another delicate pork dish this time with rice and coriander. We started with a very fine bottle of 2006 Pêra-Manca white (Adega Cartuxa) from Évora in the Alentejo and made from Arinto and Antão Vaz. All in all – concentration, complexity and minerality. For the red we had another wine from the Alentejo – the 2006 'Moon-harvested' Herdade do Grous. Naturally deep coloured as 100% Alicante Bouchet this is a big, rich wine but a little lacking in complexity, although it did develop in the glass.
2006 Moon harvested (!) Grous
Easily reached by the Metro (Carnide) O Galito is highly recommended.
Restaurant Praia da Adraga: tel: 21 923 00 28
O Galito, Rua d Fonte 18 – D, Carnide, 1600 Lisboa. Tel: 21.711.10.88
First to the restaurant at Praia da Adraga, which is on the Atlantic coast not far from Sintra and one of the most westerly points in Europe. Adraga is a small unspoilt cove, down from the village of Almocageme and the one restaurant does sensational grilled fish, as well as crab and clams. The clams are best done in the style – ameijoas à bulhão pato: a little like a moules marinières with garlic, coriander and a little chilli. Nothing is fancy here but everything is brilliantly and perfectly cooked.
Yesterday the restaurant was quiet and we were lucky to have a table by the window, which gives you a sensational view out over the sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean – next stop the US of A. Ameijoas à bulhão pato to begin with followed by grilled sea bass for two with a fine bottle of 2007 Muros Antigos Alvarinho Vinho Verde. In the Loire the natural choice would be a good bottle of Muscadet but this is a most acceptable substitute. Difficult to see how life could get better.
View from our table in the restaurant@Praia AdragaThen this evening off to O Galito in Carnide, now a suburb of Lisbon but which once must have been a quite village away from the bustle of Lisbon. Here you will find wonderful Alentejo cooking married to a sensational wine list. Dona Gertrudes remains in charge of the kitchen while her son is increasingly ceding the front of house to his energetic son. It's a small restaurant, so essential to book on Saturdays and probably very wise for the other nights of the week. It is also open at lunchtime but closed Sundays and for holidays.
2006 Pêra Manca Tonight we enjoyed sopa de cação (shark soup) then migos de espargos c/ lombo porco alentejano grelhado (migos is a bit like a light bread dumpling and, in this case, mixed with asparagus). Also another delicate pork dish this time with rice and coriander. We started with a very fine bottle of 2006 Pêra-Manca white (Adega Cartuxa) from Évora in the Alentejo and made from Arinto and Antão Vaz. All in all – concentration, complexity and minerality. For the red we had another wine from the Alentejo – the 2006 'Moon-harvested' Herdade do Grous. Naturally deep coloured as 100% Alicante Bouchet this is a big, rich wine but a little lacking in complexity, although it did develop in the glass.
2006 Moon harvested (!) GrousEasily reached by the Metro (Carnide) O Galito is highly recommended.
Restaurant Praia da Adraga: tel: 21 923 00 28
O Galito, Rua d Fonte 18 – D, Carnide, 1600 Lisboa. Tel: 21.711.10.88
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