A more positive view of Vouvray

2015 Chenin Blanc flowering in Vouvray

My post last week covered what appears, on an investigation, a very dubious attempt to prevent Jacky Blot and François Chidaine from vinifying their Vouvray in Montlouis by changing the Vouvray décret. A change that Michel Bettane has characterised as an 'abuse of power'. Furthermore this part of the 2009 Vouvray décret may well not survive an appeal by Blot/Chidaine to the Conseil d'Etat.

But enough of that for the moment. Instead yesterday I passed a fascinating and very rewarding day visiting five Vouvray producers – all doing interesting things. Some of them like Sébastien Brunet, Damien Pinon, Matthieu Cosme have now been established for some time other like Michel Autran and Jacquelin Rouvre are more recent arrivals. I am indebted to Vincent and Tania Carême for suggesting and organising my visits. Vouvray has need of people of Vincent Carême ready to promote lesser known producers making quality wines as the reputation of Vouvray has been eclipsed very considerably recently by the its southern neighbour – Montlouis.

My hosts on Monday:

Ex-doctor Michel Autran, who changed his life in 2006 and made his first vintage in 2011 and is now making brilliantly precise wines.     

Rugby player Mathieu Cosme who took over the family vines in 2005 and since 2011 working with his brother Florent. Mathieu is not a new discovery as I have tasted his wines before before but this was the first time I have visited his vineyards and seen his carefully work amongst his vines. 

59 year-old Jacquelin Rouvre but young in spirit gave up running his Paris restaurant after 17 years of hard work to take up his parent's three hectares of vines in 2008. Jacquelin made his first vintage in 2010. if you want a bargain buy his lovely 2010 Brut for just 6.50€ a bottle. Absurdly cheap for the quality.

It was good to meet Damien Pinon again. Damien and Ingrid Pinon featured in Jim's Loire back in June 2011 http://jimsloire.blogspot.fr/2011/06/monday-13th-june-les-jeunes-vignerons.html2011 and to again be impressed by their wines. 

Many years ago I tasted the wines of Domaine d'Orfeuilles in London, when the estate was run by Bernard Herivault, so it was good to meet his son Arnaud and taste his fine range of wines. By the end of next year all of the 22-hectare estate will be organic with Arnaud starting to move to biodynamic viticulture.

Sébastien Brunet took over the family domaine when his father died young in 2006. The vineyards are farmed organically and look particularly healthy yesterday. Like the other Vouvray producers I visited Sébastien wines had real precision. I particularly liked the 2013 and 2014 La Pente de la Folie made from old vines (55 years old) from a south-facing parcel of 70 ares.In 2007 Sébastien was able to buy an extraordinary cellar with 10 kilometres of galleries that used to be used to grow mushrooms.   

Vincent Carême, who kindly organised my day, and whose 2013 Cuvée Ancestrale and 2012 Le Clos Vouvray Sec were stand outs.

Most of these producers are organic – all eschew weedkillers. Sadly the use of weedkillers is far too prevalent in AC Vouvray with many vineyards completely blitzed. Instead of promoting foolish rules to bar top-quality Vouvray producers from vinfiying in the neighbouring commune of Montlouis-sur-Loire, the Syndicat of Vouvray Producers would be much better occupied persuading their members to move to a more sustainable viticulture and to promote biodiversity. If Vouvray wants to improve its flagging reputation, here are some fine examples to follow!