Thibaud Boudignon – very fine Anjou Blanc and Savennières from own vines
+ in charge of Château Soucherie
The Justerini & Brooks Loire and Rhône tasting was a good opportunity to taste some Loire 2012s along with a few from 2011 and earlier vintages. The tasting showed that, although 2012 was a small vintage, some dry whites and reds were made, although the terrible weather during October meant that sweet whites were a wash-out.
I was particularly impressed by the wines of Thibaud Boudignon – his Anjou Blancs but especially his finely precise, linear 2012 Les Fougerais, Savennières. Early this year Thibaud was in hospital with a bad back, so it is good to see him now active again. These wines come from the two hectares of his own vines. His main responsibility is looking after the 28 hectares of Château Soucherie in the Layon. Soucherie's 2010 Chaume won the 2013 Loire regional sweet wine trophy.
The 2012s from Jacky Blot – Bourgueil, Montlouis and Vouvray – are looking promising, especially the Clos de Venise (Vouvray), Remus Plus (Montlouis) and the Clos Mosny (Montlouis) among the whites and the two Bourgueils shown – le Haut de la Butte and Les Perrières.
Then on to the Sauvignon Blancs: standouts were – 2011 Sancerre and Le Chêne, Lucien Crochet (Gilles Crochet always ages his wines for an additional year before they are put on the market); and Sancerres from Vincent Pinard – 2012 Petit Chamarin and 2011 Harmonie. There were three 2012s from François Cotat – Caillottes, Les Culs de Beaujeu and Les Monts Damnées – that I found underwhelming at this stage in their life. I have had wonderful bottles of Cotat in the past and these may well develop with time. However, on the evidence of this tasting I would rather pay £130 (a case of 12 in bond) for Le Chêne (Crochet) than £260 a case for Cotat's Les Culs de Beaujeu or Les Monts Damnées.
Also on show were Château de Hureau's Saumur Champignys and Charles Joguet's Chinons with 2011 Cuvée les Fevettes (Hureau) and 2011 Clos du Chêne Vert and 2011 Clos de la Dioterie the standouts. In contrast I found the Joguet 2011 Cuvée Terroir rather green in the finish. It is, however, £45 for a case of 6 compared to £110 for the Dioterie.
There was also a small selection of Loires already released. Here i picked out the finely balanced 2011 Anjou Blanc sec from Thibaud Boudignon, 2011 Clos de Venise (Jacky Blot) and the just lovely 2010 Les Onnis, Coteaux du Layon Chaume from Domaine des Forges – full of ripe apricots.
Then on to the Sauvignon Blancs: standouts were – 2011 Sancerre and Le Chêne, Lucien Crochet (Gilles Crochet always ages his wines for an additional year before they are put on the market); and Sancerres from Vincent Pinard – 2012 Petit Chamarin and 2011 Harmonie. There were three 2012s from François Cotat – Caillottes, Les Culs de Beaujeu and Les Monts Damnées – that I found underwhelming at this stage in their life. I have had wonderful bottles of Cotat in the past and these may well develop with time. However, on the evidence of this tasting I would rather pay £130 (a case of 12 in bond) for Le Chêne (Crochet) than £260 a case for Cotat's Les Culs de Beaujeu or Les Monts Damnées.
Also on show were Château de Hureau's Saumur Champignys and Charles Joguet's Chinons with 2011 Cuvée les Fevettes (Hureau) and 2011 Clos du Chêne Vert and 2011 Clos de la Dioterie the standouts. In contrast I found the Joguet 2011 Cuvée Terroir rather green in the finish. It is, however, £45 for a case of 6 compared to £110 for the Dioterie.
There was also a small selection of Loires already released. Here i picked out the finely balanced 2011 Anjou Blanc sec from Thibaud Boudignon, 2011 Clos de Venise (Jacky Blot) and the just lovely 2010 Les Onnis, Coteaux du Layon Chaume from Domaine des Forges – full of ripe apricots.
A rather soft focus Anne-Charlotte Genet, Domaine Charles Joguet
Gilles Crochet, Domaine Lucien Crochet, Bué, AC Sancerre
Jacky Blot
Jean Philippe Blot
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