Loire: Louis Métaireau's Muscadet and a Côte Roannaise

2010 Cuvée One, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine  

During the vintage we dropped in briefly to see Marie-Luce and Jean-François at Louis Métaireau's Domaine Grand Mouton (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine). Before we departed Marie-Luce kindly gave us some samples, which we have been working our way through.   

I still remember going to see Louis Métaireau on my first visit to the Pays Nantais back in January 1989. Louis and his wines made a strong impression then and they continue to do so. Louis was always rightly ambitious for his Muscadets: to make a fine wine far from an anonymous  bottle of dry white. I haven't seen Louis in years now as he has long retired and now lives in Corsica. Instead his daughter and her husband run the estate.  

In Louis' absence the wines haven't changed – they remain fine, elegant Muscadet with a classy packaging in match.

2011 Louis Métaireau: Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie

Crisp, lemony but with a depth vibrant fruit. Good length. Would be good with grilled fish.

2011 Cuvée One, Louis Métaireau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie

This is the estate's top cuvée and only released in good years. Expressive lemony, citric nose. Lovely vibrant palate with some weight, long lemony finish. Brilliantly vibrant wine. Excellent with grilled sea bass - two for £8 from Billings our local fishmonger and butcher in Sydenham. Got the fishmonger to split them like a kipper, so I could just stick them under the hot grill. Gave them 7 minutes, which timed it pretty well. Ideal or would 6.30 or 6.45 have been better?

2010 Cuvée One Louis Métaireau Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie

Weight, citric, floral, touch of almond, weight and lovely balance. Works as an apéro but really deserves to be served with a fine fish dish, delicate but persistent acidity with the typical prickle in the finish – a signature of a sur lie. Fine and age worthy.

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Jacques Plasse 2011 Boutheran Côte Roannaise

This is another of the batch of wines sent to me from the Côtes de Forez and Côte Roannaise. Overall they have been very impressive and this is 2011 Boutheran, a single vineyard, from Jacques Plasse no exception. Mid-plum colour with lovely juicy fruit. It isn't complex but it's a delight to drink – just delicious Gamay! Very soft but with enough acidity to give the fruit enough bite to encourage you to take another swig.