Tasting of 2010s@the RSJ

2010 harvest@Domaine de la Butte, Bourgueil

This is a rather belated report on a tasting at the RSJ Restaurant on Monday 4th July featuring a range from the 2010 vintage. 2010 is an interesting contrast to 2009. Overall the wines, although they have good fruit, have crisper acidity and a more marked mineral character than the richer 2009. 

Growing season of 2010 the Loire divided climatically into two parts: west and east of Tours. To the west it was very dry with some parts of Anjou having virtually no rain in April and May then again in July and August. Over the the whole year Angers had 595mm of rain compared to the average of 647mm. The 2010 total was boosted by high rainfall in November and December. The Pays Nantais had a similarly dry summer. Average temperatures here in 2010 were 16.2˚C exactly in line with the norm average of 16.2˚C. In contrast the average for 2009 was considerably higher at 17.1˚C.

Further east in Bourges the rainfall total in 2010 was 691mm against a norm of 732mm. Although slightly below average, it was well above that of 2009 – 622mm. Average max temperatures in 2010 were 15.6˚C compared to the norm of 15.8˚C. 2010 was much cooler than 16.9˚C.

Aperitif:

2010 Sauvignon, Vin de Pays de la Loire, Domaine de Bablut

This Sauvignon Blanc from Christophe Daviau was for many among their favourite wines of the tasting. It immediately pointed up the difference between the 2009 and 2010 vintages. The 2009 SB Bablut was a fatter, richer wine with more exotic fruit flavours. In contrast, although the 2010 has some weight, it is more mineral and has more marked acidity.

Whites:

2010 AC Touraine Sauvignon, Clos Roussely, Vincent Roussely

Attractive crisp lemony fruit well balanced with mineral acidity. As is often the case the acidity is more marked on the Touraine Sauvignon than those from Anjou. Whites from the clay limestone soils of Saumur and Touraine tend to have higher levels of acidity than those from the impervious rocks and soils of Anjou.

2010 Quincy, Domaine des Ballandors, Jean Tatin and Chantal Wilk
The Ballandors' Quincy is quite lean and citric at present. It may take on more weight over the next few months.

2010 Chenin Blanc, Anjou Blanc, Ch de la Roulerie, Philippe Germain

A change of grape variety here moving from the trio Sauvignon Blancs to Chenin Blanc. Again la Roulerie is quite crisp and lemony at present and may gain weight with a little more time in bottle. I found this showed better with the  

2010 3 Coteaux, Chinon Blanc, Baudry-Dutour

An ideal bracing aperitif – very clean citric flavours with light floral. Closed with a screwcap. Tasted without food this was the clear preference amongst the tasters. With the salmon the verdict was less clear cut.

Reds:

2010 Clos de la Bienboire, Château de Villeneuve, Jean-Pierre Chevallier  
This was probably the first time this new no sulphur cuvée from Jean-Pierre has been shown at a tasting in the UK. Its attractively soft, bright reds fruits are to be enjoyed now. A wine to drink with friends rather than on to analyse.   


2010 Les Rouillères, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Frédéric Mabileau
Showing more concentration than the Bienboire with juicy black fruits to the fore. Can be kept two or three years but very good to drink now and enjoy the youthful fruit. 

2010 Anjou Rouge Château de la Roulerie, Philippe Germain

Again black fruits to the fore being from Anjou the tannins are a little more present.

2010 Saumur Champigny, Domaine de Roches Neuves, Thierry GermainBright youthful, vibrant fruit – both red and black fruits. The 2010s from Thierry are a real success.  

1996 Chinon Vieilles Vignes, Domaine de la Perrière, Jean & Christophe Baudry
We chose a 1996 to finish as it was our guess as a vintage that may give a clue as to how the 2010 may age. The mid-weight Vieilles Vignes has aged attractively with mature soft, round fruit. Ready to drink now it can be kept a while longer although I doubt if it will improve further.

Starter:

Ballotine of Salmon with cucumber dressing

Main:

Confit Duck leg

Saute potatoes, spinach, braised celery, carrots

Dessert
Griottine cherry and Greek yogurt jelly with whipped cream and shortbread