Bruno Breton (Domaine du Carroi) with his 2009 Bourgueil Tradition
Bruno Breton's Bourgueils from his Domaine du Carroi was next up after the Jasnières of de Mianville. There was a small group of men clustered around the stand enthusiastically sampling the wines. Although he shares the same surname, Bruno Breton is no relation to the more media conscious Pierre Breton also of Bourgueil. Domaine du Carroi has 20 hectares of vines – 17.5 in Bourgueil and 2.5 in the neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.
I started with the juicy, soft, easy drinking 2009 Saint-Nicolas (7.00€). Just the sort of wine that would disappear rapidly when shared with friends. Next the more angular 2009 Bourgueil Prestige (6.50€), which needs a bit more time to soften, although food would soften the tannins. Then on to the deep coloured, dense and concentrated 2009 Tradition (8.50€) with plenty of black fruits and structure. I'd buy the Saint-Nicolas to drink now and the reasonably priced Tradition (my preferred wine) to put away for a couple of years or more. I do, however, find it a little strange that 'Tradition' is used for the top wine whereas the lesser Bourgueil is called Prestige.
Bruno explained that he picks by hand. When I asked about a sorting table he said he didn't have one as he was in the vineyard with the pickers making sure of the quality.
Roselyne and Bruno Breton
Domaine du Carroi
45 Rue Basse, 37140 Restigne
Phone : 02.47.97.31.35
Luc Bizard
I finished with a range of 2009 Savennières from Château d'Epiré with owner, Luc Bizard. Firstly the minerally, quite tight 2009 Epiré (11.50€), which is a blend of a number of parcels. Le Hu Boyau (13.50€) from 50 year-old vines using an old clone that produces small bunches is definitely a step up and worth the additional two euros with more concentration, texture, minerality and length.
Then on to the concentrated, quite rich but well balanced Cuvée Speciale (14.50€) from vines on roches bleues (phtanites). There is no malo on this cuvée, whereas there is a partial malo on the first two wines. Equally there is no malo on La Reserve du Maître, whose grapes come from the same type of soil as the Cuvée Spéciale but are aged in acacia barrels. I found La Reserve du Maître was a little more drying on the finish than the Spéciale, although I think both should age well.
To be concluded.
I started with the juicy, soft, easy drinking 2009 Saint-Nicolas (7.00€). Just the sort of wine that would disappear rapidly when shared with friends. Next the more angular 2009 Bourgueil Prestige (6.50€), which needs a bit more time to soften, although food would soften the tannins. Then on to the deep coloured, dense and concentrated 2009 Tradition (8.50€) with plenty of black fruits and structure. I'd buy the Saint-Nicolas to drink now and the reasonably priced Tradition (my preferred wine) to put away for a couple of years or more. I do, however, find it a little strange that 'Tradition' is used for the top wine whereas the lesser Bourgueil is called Prestige.
Bruno explained that he picks by hand. When I asked about a sorting table he said he didn't have one as he was in the vineyard with the pickers making sure of the quality.
Roselyne and Bruno Breton
Domaine du Carroi
45 Rue Basse, 37140 Restigne
Phone : 02.47.97.31.35
**
Luc Bizard
I finished with a range of 2009 Savennières from Château d'Epiré with owner, Luc Bizard. Firstly the minerally, quite tight 2009 Epiré (11.50€), which is a blend of a number of parcels. Le Hu Boyau (13.50€) from 50 year-old vines using an old clone that produces small bunches is definitely a step up and worth the additional two euros with more concentration, texture, minerality and length.
Then on to the concentrated, quite rich but well balanced Cuvée Speciale (14.50€) from vines on roches bleues (phtanites). There is no malo on this cuvée, whereas there is a partial malo on the first two wines. Equally there is no malo on La Reserve du Maître, whose grapes come from the same type of soil as the Cuvée Spéciale but are aged in acacia barrels. I found La Reserve du Maître was a little more drying on the finish than the Spéciale, although I think both should age well.
To be concluded.
Jim, I’m afraid I cannot be short.
ReplyDeleteMet M. Bizard several times but the strongest memory dates back to a family hired-boat trip (one week) on the Mayenne and the Sarthe, 15 odd years ago. I think M.Bizard had just spent some years in the merchant shipping business and had recently come back to the family estate. He had come to fetch us at the nearest embankment pier and we then discovered the lesser-known red “Clos de la Cerisaie” as well.
What a wonderful range of wines, on those schisty soils!
I must pay a visit to the Angers area soon. Even though I’m short of money, the colleagues there may consider swapping a few cases with my humble production. It used to be the done thing, in the past, and I still keep the tradition alive - heedlessly of the market value of the bottles* - if not the Aspidistra flying.
*: mind you, my preference often goes to reasonably priced wines, and my own bottles are not cheap; so, most of the time, it’s a fair deal.
All the best to your wife and yourself. May 2011 witness the disappearing of all old bores, stupidly bland shirts and other banal pieces of accouterments, I mean paraphernalia and the like. Long live the chenin, long ripen the cabernet franc and abundantly swim the pikeperch!
Luc. Merci beaucoup. Nos meilleurs voeux pour 2011.
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