Los Grandes de la Rioja: Monday 13th September – first day of tasting

Fernando – the backstage maestro

After two days of visits the tastings that are central to the Los Grandes programme got underway this morning. Backstage Fernando plays a crucial role in opening the bottles and deploying the team of pourers, while Andrés Proensa is master of ceremonies out front.

Andrés Proensa

María Antonia Fernández Daza: organiser and translator

The first flight was rosé and my clear favourite was the highly unusual 2000 Viña Tondonia. Described by Ryan Opaz as an 'orange' wine, you need to forget preconceptions about rosé with this wine. Indeed served blind it is unlikely that many would pick it as a rosé. More likely an old white or a light fino-style sherry. It has gentle oxidation on the nose, mouthfilling fruit, gentle wood influence,  length and a very attractive delicacy. The more of the Viña Tondonia wines I try on this trip, the more their hallmarks of finesse and delicacy are reinforced. Sadly finesse and delicacy is too often missing in  some of the wines here. Winemakers instead opting for over-extraction and an excess of wood.    

2000 Viña Tondonia Rosé

I also liked the pale and delicate Rosado from Muga.

2009 Rosé Muga