Richard Kelley MW: report on 2009 Domaine Huet, Vouvray

Noël Pinguet delivering part of the 2009 vintage

Domaine Huet 2009 Vintage

Offer and Report

June 2010

After the turbulent conditions of the 2008 growing season (flash floods at the end of May and the subsequent loss of over half the crop to disease), normal business was resumed this vintage. My view is that the barometer for assessing the overall quality of any vintage at Huet is dependent on the range of wines that are produced in a single year; 2002 and 2005 being perfect examples of this, when everything from pétillant to moelleux are produced. The 2009 vintage falls into this category.

Whilst the climatic conditions of any given year will always dictate the style of wines that are produced in the appellation, it was an objective this year that Huet should at least try harvest grapes at a level suitable for the production of sparkling wines, since none has been made since the 2005 vintage and stocks are badly depleted. In order to achieve this, Noël Pinguet has been experimenting with leaf-plucking during the growing season to try and reduce the surface area of the canopy and restrict the ripening, something which is contradictory to what would have happened just two decades ago, when lack of maturity in the fruit was an important issue. Noël sees this as clear sign of the problem of the change in climate. If successful, he’ll adopt this system in all the vineyards to try and bring down the alcohol levels, which are undoubtedly creeping up.

Although the conditions during the growing season were generally good, the 2009 harvest was a complicated one. The 15 day flowering period, much longer than usual, meant that ripening was not homogenous and Huet needed to send the vendangeurs out three times, even for the sec, in order to harvest at the optimum time. This again emphasises the importance of hand picking in Vouvray, as those producers who deploy mechanical harvesters, can only perform a single passage, so compromising the quality for the sake of convenience and cost.

The harvest started, with grapes for pétillant, on the 26^th September, and continued until the 27^th October. The majority of the grapes for the 1er trie wines came in on the second pass, whilst the fruit for Cuvée Constance was harvested, with around 50% botrytis, mostly from within Le Clos du Bourg and Le Mont, during the first few days. As is normal, Le Mont was the last to be picked; it’s ripening retarded by the colder clay soils, but also this year by the delayed flowering (it commenced seven days later than in Le Clos du Bourg).

In the cellar, it was found that the berries were small and contained less juice than normal, meaning that carefully controlling the pressing cycle was essential in order not to extract any phenolic compounds. Noël is generally fanatical about this stage of the winemaking process, but one can understand the importance under such conditions. Regardless, the harvest came in at an average of 48hl/ha, which is considered correct, and twice that of the 2008 vintage. Fermentations were protracted and certainly more difficult this year, with Le Mont being the last to finish.

The 2009s have given us a broad range of styles, but more important, commercially, the objective of producing much needed Pétillant and Sec has been achieved. Whilst 2008 was seen as a year for Demi-Sec (the best since 1988 for this style), the strength of the 2009 vintage lies with the drier wines, although overall this year will rank alongside 2002 and 2005 as being one of the best vintages of the decade. The defining character of the vintage is the good levels of acidity (between 4.5 and 5.0g/l), which will ensure these wines will all have a very long and distinguished life ahead of them.

Richard Kelley MW

THE WINES

These are now in bottle and tasted the last week of May.

2009 Le Haut Lieu Sec (limited)           
Currently primary and neutral on the nose (as is normal post bottling), but this is lovely on entry to the palate; juicy, with good focus even if it is still very closed. There is a hint of residual sugar on the mid palate, but it finishes dry and mineral on the finish. Needs time, but this will evolve into a classic Huet Sec.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Sec (limited)           

This has closed up on bottling. It was already lush and exotic post-fermentation at the end of January, but is now very shy on the nose. The palate shows greater richness and texture which helps it display its class. Serious, but needs time- more time than Le Haut Lieu – before it will be at its best.

2009 Le Mont Sec (limited)         

Surprisingly for Le Mont, this is currently the most expressive of the trio of Sec. Delicate, yeasty and already complex, with great focus and a clear, crisp minerality running through the wine. It might well close up, as is the way with Le Mont, but this is where my money will be this vintage. Great now, but will be even greater in a decade or so. 

2009 Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec         

There was a time, in early January, when there was a question mark in Noël’s head as to whether this would make a commercial release. I suppose after the quality of the 2008s, this was always going to be a hard act to follow. The nose is delicate and (currently) open with aromas of baked apple. Good weight on entry with sweetness showing, although it does appear to be in balance. Good focus with some minerality to the finish. It needs time. Noël’s initial concern was based on the 14.5% alcohol, although it does appear to carry this well.

2009 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux         

Open, delicate and faintly nutty. The aromas and flavour profile are still very primary. On the palate the wine is juicy, well focused and not obviously sweet. Good weight and length with good racy acidity to the finish. This is still very young and barely approachable at this stage. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Mont Moelleux         

Deeper appearance. Straw-yellow. Restrained and backward on the nose, but shows its class and future potential. Rounded and more obviously sweet on the palate. It appears a bit clumsy at this stage, but this is nothing to be concerned about; it just needs time to grow into itself. It shows its quality in the weight, structure and concentration to the finish. It is likely to be the last of the Moelleux to mature, but this is typical for Le Mont. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux

More intense that Le Haut-Lieu; richer and riper, with aromas of quince, honey and apple. Already lovely on entry, with a crisp freshness and juicy acidity which appears completely to mask any sense of sweetness. A little residual carbon dioxide adds to the overall lift. Persistent finish. Will amply repay keeping. 55g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Mont Moelleux 1ère Trie         

Backward and restrained on the nose. It displays the same rich character as Le Clos du Bourg, with great texture and structure, but has an added degree of complexity derived from its more mineral core. Excellent potential, but needs to be hidden away for a decade at least. 93g/l residual sugar.

2009 Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1ère Trie             

Clean but closed on the nose. Taut and mineral. Rich and lush on entry; much more than the nose suggests. Powerfully structured with juicy acidity. Rounded and concentrated, but will need time to show its full potential. 92g/l residual sugar.

2009 Cuvée Constance  50cl         

The fourth year this decade that Constance has been produced. The wine is a blend of 50% botytised fruit from Le Clos du Bourg, Le Mont and a tiny fraction from the outskirts of Le Haut Lieu. Polished, straw-gold appearance. Very restrained, with barely noticeable sweetness on the nose. Rich on entry; lush, with very good weight, texture and the juicy acidity which helps define this vintage. Excellent poise and balance. Persistent finish. A much more restrained Constance, but one that maintains and displays a sense of place. 153g/l residual sugar / 11.5% alcohol.

Further details on Richards Walford's website.