Jerémie Mourat@2010 London

Jerémie Mourat

Jerémie Mourat was one of four young Loire vignerons over for last week's London International Wine Trade Fair. The three others were Jerémie Huchet (Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine), Jean-Hubert Lebreton (Domaine des Rochelles, Anjou) and Alexander Cady (Domaine Cady, Coteaux du Layon). The four had a heavy responsibility looking after the veteran Loire courtier, Charles Sydney.  

Mourat Père et Fils (Château Marie du Fou) have 96 hectares of vines around Mareuil-sur-Lay in the Fiefs Vendéens. In addition Jerémie has 14 hectares of his own vines that he cultivates organically. Jerémie uses special egg-shaped vats to ferment some of his wines. I started with the  quite citric , lemony 2009 Collection – a equal blend of Chrdonnay and Grolleau Gris (  )  – with a touch of spice in the finish. Then the attractive 2009 Château Marie du Fou (70% Chenin Blanc; 30% Chardonnay), which is fermented and matured in 600 litre barrels with ripe mouthfilling fruit and good structure. 

Next a red – Collection Rouge which is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Negrette (the Fiefs Vendeens is the only part of the Loire to grow this variety which is best in Fronton). This has good supple soft fruit, good length, some acidity and just a touch of greeness in the finish.  2009 Moratus from the organic vineyard is pure Pinot Noir – quite concentrated with rather edgy fruit. 

We finish with 2009 O.V.N.I. (UFO in English) – 90% Sauvignon Blanc with 10% Chardonnay with grassy Sauvignon aromas and nicely restrained on the palate with good length.

I can see that a trip to the Vendée is need both to visit the Mourats and revisit Thierry Michon.