Philippe Foreau (part 2): concentrate on what’s in the glass!

12 June 2009 (follows on from Philippe Foreau – part one)

Philippe Foreau with a glass of 1989 Moelleux

There then followed one of those episodes of stupidity that it would be nice to learn from but I may well not. Philippe brought out another bottle to taste blind. He explained that he had served this vintage blind to a number of journalists, including Michel Bettane, and none had divined the vintage. “This wine has 155 g of rs,” said Philippe.

I noticed that the top of the cork before it was pulled was black with mould – jumping foolishly to the conclusion that it was quite old. Indeed so convinced was I that I really paid no proper attention to the wine that actually in the glass. Had I done so, I would have seen that the wine was pale golden with notes of barley sugar and citrus fruits – orange rind – as well as apricot. Certainly with none of the evolved aromas that characterised the 1996, so I should have concluded that it was a young wine from this century and, with 155 g rs, from a very good, hot vintage – 2003 or 2005. It would then have been reasonable to conclude that this was 2003 as the sugar levels in 2003 tend to be higher than in 2005. Furthermore as the wine was well balanced and not cloying, it would fit with Philippe’s prediction that this wine had surprised many for 2003 has been faulted for not having sufficient acidity.

Did I follow this logic? No, of course not, as I was still thinking of an older wine from a vintage without a high reputation. Eventually I suggested 1988 without a shred of evidence. Completely wrong – 2003 Clos Naudin Moelleux Réserve (37.80€).

It’s what’s in the glass stupid!

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Close up of the 1989 Réserve Moelleux

Our memorable tasting finished with the famous pair of vintages – 1989 and 1990 – the Moelleux Réserve from both years. First up the 1989 – still light to mid-gold at nearly 20 years of age. Showing some of the secondary aromas of Vouvray with bottle age along with white peach and apricot – lovely minerality and finesse. In contrast the 1990 is much deeper coloured – very typical of this vintage – and is richer with 220 g rs with concentrated barley sugar and pate de fruits flavours. Although it is impressive and a fine wine the 1990 does not have the remarkable finesse and balance that the 1989 has. Philippe also made Le Goutte d’Or in 1990, which we did not taste, it has 320 g of residual sugar.

The deeper coloured 1990 Réserve

It is fortunate that there is still une petite elite of producers keeping the flag flying as Vouvray is certain a classic expression of Chenin Blanc – arguably its classic expression. Amongst the elite I'd include, in addition naturally of Domaine du Clos Naudin and Domaine Huet, Champalou, Bernard Fouquet (Domaine des Aubuisières), Alexandre Monmousseau's Château Gaudrelle along with a few others as well as the elite Montlouis brigade of François Chidaine, now restoring Le Clos Baudouin, and Jacky Blot.

Entrance to the house and cellars of Le Clos Baudouin with the vineyard above

Philippe Foreau
Domaine du Clos Naudin
14 Rue de la Croix Buisée
37210 Vouvray
Tel: 02.47.52.71.46
Open Monday – Saturday: 9-12; 14-18