One of my favourite Clos Roche Blanche wines is their L’Arpent Rouge made from Pineau d’Aunis (also called Chenin Noir). Unfortunately they don’t make it every year as the Pineau d’Aunis rosé has first call. Light bodied, juicy and spicy L’Arpent Rouge is a great summer wine. The 2007 is drinking really well now and has a particularly spicy character – certainly pepper, which is the signature note of Pineau d’Aunis – but also nutmeg and cinnamon. Delicious but I fear this was out last bottle and there was none made in 2008. Let’s hope Didier is able to make some in 2009!
1986 Clos Uroulat, Charles Hours, Jurançon
Made from Petit Manseng this has some similarities with a sweet Montlouis and Vouvray, especially with its clean and refreshing acidity in the finish and its ability to age. Sweet Jurançon is made through passerillage – the sun concentrating the grapes on the vines. The area does not get botrytis. The 1986 has a lovely bright mid-golden colour, rich apricot and honey flavours – perhaps softer toned than a Loire sweet Chenin of the same age. The finish is long and clean.
I’ve never had the chance to taste a really old Jurançon but there is no reason to believe that the 1986 wouldn’t go on for at least another 20 years at least. Served blind I’m sure I would confuse it with a Vouvray or Montlouis.
Charles Hours, Clos Uroulat
1986 Clos Uroulat, Charles Hours, Jurançon
Made from Petit Manseng this has some similarities with a sweet Montlouis and Vouvray, especially with its clean and refreshing acidity in the finish and its ability to age. Sweet Jurançon is made through passerillage – the sun concentrating the grapes on the vines. The area does not get botrytis. The 1986 has a lovely bright mid-golden colour, rich apricot and honey flavours – perhaps softer toned than a Loire sweet Chenin of the same age. The finish is long and clean.
I’ve never had the chance to taste a really old Jurançon but there is no reason to believe that the 1986 wouldn’t go on for at least another 20 years at least. Served blind I’m sure I would confuse it with a Vouvray or Montlouis.
Charles Hours, Clos Uroulat
•••
La Grande Maison blogspot has an encouraging report on the green and vibrant vineyards around Le Puy-Notre-Dame.
There is far too little Jurançon seen on the market where I live. I remember tasting some wines from Clos Uroulat at a wine fair three or four years ago, but the wines were never available, so I assume they failed to find an importer.
ReplyDeleteThat's a shame JT as Jurançon Sec Cuvée Marie with a majority of Gros Manseng is very fine too.
ReplyDelete