French producers face new battle

Fight to save 'real rosé'

No sooner has the battle over paying for tastings and being able to mention alcohol on the net been won than the French wine industry has embarked on a new fight. This time over the practice of blending red and white wine to make still rosé, which has hitherto been illegal in France. Curiously it is allowed when making rosé Champagne as well as other sparkling rosés, like Crémants.*

Under a new agreement the EU will be soon lifting the ban on blending red and white wine to make rosé. This will apply to vins de table and not to AC or VDP wines. It will bring the EU into line with practices in South Africa and Australia. Apparently all 27 members of the EU voted on this proposal on 27th January 2009 with the French representative alleged to have voted in favour. There will be another vote on 27th April.

The producers of rosé in Provence are particularly incensed by the lifting of the ban, afraid that the market for rosé will be flooded by container loads of cheap rosé resulting in thousands losing their jobs or livelihoods. Frankly I would be amazed if the lifting of the ban had much effect on employment in Provence as I'm sure that diners in restaurants along the Côte d'Azur will continue to drink Provence rosés with their bouillabaisse.

The European Commission is apparently now considering the French objections. It is possible that the reform will be delayed or that there will be special labels to denote French rosé made by the traditional method of using only red grapes.

In the Loire any likely detrimental effect that the lifting of the ban might have would be on the producers of Rosé d'Anjou.

Further details here and here.

* 12th March: I gather from the eminent and estimable Joël Deniau of the Syndicat des Crémants de Loire that the position vis à vis Champagne mixing red and white wine to make rosé is apparently not as clear cut as many assume. Joël tells me that there is no text or décret that authorises this practice even in Champagne. There is a widespread assumption that this type of blending is allowed and it is not a question of illegal practices.

The World Trade Organisation is due to give its advice on the reform of the laws applying to rosé and Joël anticipates that the blending of red and white wine will be permitted for all sparkling wine.

15th March: Comment by Michel Smith on Hervé Lalau's blog.