Château Musar 1970 Gaston Hochar

(16th November 2008)

I really can’t see how I can justify including this in a Loire blog. I know the Loire is a long river but it doesn’t reach Lebanon nor does it flow in that general direction. Unfortunately the Hochars don’t, as far as I know, grow Chenin Blanc. They probably fly over the Loire from time to time – a bit tenuous really!

Serge Hochar: November 2005

Too bad! I want to celebrate a memorable bottle from a remarkable family that we drank last night with some very good lamb from Northfield Farm (www.northfieldfarm.com). Despite the level being slightly down the 1970 was on fine form – sweet fruit, spice and a touch of tobacco. Bought from Les Amis du Vin probably in the early 1980s, I wish I could say that this had been stored in ideal conditions but no it has lain in our South London flat with all the variations of temperature over the years – a testament that the wine is as resilient as the Hochar family who make it.

In November 2005 I had the great good luck to go on a press trip to the Lebanese vineyards, which naturally included a visit to Château Musar and time with Serge and Ronald Hochar. Throughout our trip the hospitality was fantastic, almost overwhelming. There was a sense of optimism – the civil war was over and the Syrians had left. It turned out to be a false hope as a few months later the Israelis attacked.

Ronald Hochar: November 2005

When I next met Ronald and Serge I expected them to be despondent – not a bit of it. Instead they were determined to face up to the new challenges and overcome them as they did through the years of the civil war. The Hochars are an indomitable family, who make remarkable wines even if they haven’t yet planted Chenin Blanc!