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Monday, 20 October 2008

Riesling: the top white? Not for me.

Jamie Goode: wine anorak blog 19th October 2008
‘As I've said before on this blog, if you are in the wine trade you have no choice about which your favourite white grape is. It *just* has to be Riesling. Well, with wines like this, it's not difficult. It's beautifully balanced and delicious. The only problem? It should really be a pound or two cheaper, I think.

Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling QBA 2007 Pfalz, Germany’

Much as I admire Jamie on this occasion he is wrong. Riesling is certainly not my favourite grape variety – Chenin Blanc, the world’s most versatile grape, is., although Riesling is an honourable runner-up.
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5 comments:

  1. Anonymous21 October 2008 at 07:45

    Com'on - those two are my 3rd and 4th choices.

    #2 is Gewürztraminer - from Alsace and Alto Adige. (NZ has two that make the grade.)

    #1 is Ribolla Giala. Although, perhaps it really makes great Orange wine rather than white.

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  2. Jim's Loire21 October 2008 at 07:57

    Jack

    It is, of course, a question of personal opinion, but can Ribolla Giala make great dry white, demi-sec, sweet and sparkling wine?

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  3. Simon Jones22 October 2008 at 00:12

    Hello Jim,
    It is all about subjective tastes, but, sorry, my vote goes to riesling. I worked at Reichsrat von Buhl for a summer in 1997 and fell in love with the variety - probably much the same way you fell in love with Loire chenin. My joint number two probably goes to pinot blanc (Weißburgunder) and pinot gris (Grauburgunder) from Baden and the Pfalz, though the French, apart from Alsace, seem to turn their noses up at it (and most German wine for that matter. "C'est trop doux!" is the usual complaint, as if all they've ever tasted are a few fragrant kabinetts from the mosel(lle).

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  4. Simon Jones22 October 2008 at 00:30

    And I know you can make brandy with chenin, but I'd still say that riesling is more versatile:

    You have the whole spectrum of wines from 7% to 14% alcohol, bone-dry, dry, off-dry, balanced, sweet, noble sweet (Trockenbeerenauslese) to knock the socks off Sauternes, sparkling, Eiswein...

    And riesling, more than any grape other than pinot noir, provides a precise reflection of the individual terroir on which it is grown.

    At least that's my opinion.

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  5. Jim's Loire22 October 2008 at 07:28

    Simon. Many thanks for your messages. As you say it is a matter of taste. I will give Riesling the ability to make thrilling wines at low alcohol. However, Chenin has the ability to make sweet wines the equal the Riesling – the both having greater freshness than Sauternes. Sparkling Chenin especially from Vouvray and Montlouis are remarkable.

    As well as being used to make brandy, Chenin can also be used for making 'sherry' as in South Africa.

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