Le Lion d'Or, Arcins(21 August 2008)
Invited to spend a few days with friends, who have a house in the centre of Pauillac, we took the precaution of taking with us a few fine Loire bottles – you can never be too careful when visiting foreign parts!
On our last night in the Médoc we went to Jean-Paul Barbier’s Lion d’Or in Arcins, just north of Margaux. Barbier has an admirable policy of allowing you to bring your own wine. I’m not sure whether they charge any corkage as I didn’t see the bill. The Lion d’Or has some echoes of the old Bertorelli’s in London Charlotte before it was revamped – daily hand written menus and a wood panelled dinning room.
We enjoyed the minerally 2005 La Moussière Sancerre Blanc from Alphonse Mellot – good but leaner than I would have expected for a 2005. Then two reds: the Grand Clos 2002 Château de Villeneuve Saumur-Champigny and the relatively local Château Saint-Pierre 1999 from Saint-Julien from the Lion d’Or’s own wine list. Initially the perfumed and sauve Saint-Pierre was more attractive than the younger and tighter Grand Clos – I knew the 2001 probably needed more time but I wanted to see how it was coming along. The Saumur-Champigny improved markedly as it opened up and, given that it is about half the price of the Saint-Pierre, it was a draw on quality and a win for Saumur on value.
The food was excellent. I started with a beetroot and goats cheese salad and chose the pigeon for the main course – lovely flavoursome bird with just the right degree of pinkness. Both reds complemented the pigeon. Altogether a fine meal – good ingredients simply but well cooked.
Jean-Pierre Chevallier with his Saumur Blanc 2004 (August 2005)
Jean-Pierre Chevallier's Château de Villeneuve is one of my benchmark Loire properties. Grand Clos (Saumur-Champigny) and Les Cormiers (Saumur Blanc – 100% Chenin) are the top wines, both age beautifully and are extremely fairly priced for the quality. Jean-Pierre's work in both the vineyard and winery is impeccable. A man of real intregity J-P will only release his more expensive cuvées when the vintage permits and they meet his exacting standards. In 1998 and 2004 he released only the straight Saumur-Champigny as the potential Vieilles Vignes or Grand Clos were not up to the mark.
Will certainly be returning here to Jean-Pierre and Château Villeneuve as well as to the 18th and 19th generations of Alphonse Mellot.
Restaurant Le Lion d'Or, 33460 Arcins-en-Médoc.
Tel: 05.56.58.96.79
Château de Villeneuve, 3 Rue Jean Brevet, Souzay-Champigny.
Tel: 02.41.51.14.04
www.chateau-de-villeneuve.com
Alphonse Mellot, 3 Rue Porte César, 18300 Sancerre.
Tel: 02.48.54.07.41
www.mellot.com
On our last night in the Médoc we went to Jean-Paul Barbier’s Lion d’Or in Arcins, just north of Margaux. Barbier has an admirable policy of allowing you to bring your own wine. I’m not sure whether they charge any corkage as I didn’t see the bill. The Lion d’Or has some echoes of the old Bertorelli’s in London Charlotte before it was revamped – daily hand written menus and a wood panelled dinning room.
We enjoyed the minerally 2005 La Moussière Sancerre Blanc from Alphonse Mellot – good but leaner than I would have expected for a 2005. Then two reds: the Grand Clos 2002 Château de Villeneuve Saumur-Champigny and the relatively local Château Saint-Pierre 1999 from Saint-Julien from the Lion d’Or’s own wine list. Initially the perfumed and sauve Saint-Pierre was more attractive than the younger and tighter Grand Clos – I knew the 2001 probably needed more time but I wanted to see how it was coming along. The Saumur-Champigny improved markedly as it opened up and, given that it is about half the price of the Saint-Pierre, it was a draw on quality and a win for Saumur on value.
The food was excellent. I started with a beetroot and goats cheese salad and chose the pigeon for the main course – lovely flavoursome bird with just the right degree of pinkness. Both reds complemented the pigeon. Altogether a fine meal – good ingredients simply but well cooked.
Jean-Pierre Chevallier with his Saumur Blanc 2004 (August 2005)Jean-Pierre Chevallier's Château de Villeneuve is one of my benchmark Loire properties. Grand Clos (Saumur-Champigny) and Les Cormiers (Saumur Blanc – 100% Chenin) are the top wines, both age beautifully and are extremely fairly priced for the quality. Jean-Pierre's work in both the vineyard and winery is impeccable. A man of real intregity J-P will only release his more expensive cuvées when the vintage permits and they meet his exacting standards. In 1998 and 2004 he released only the straight Saumur-Champigny as the potential Vieilles Vignes or Grand Clos were not up to the mark.
Will certainly be returning here to Jean-Pierre and Château Villeneuve as well as to the 18th and 19th generations of Alphonse Mellot.
Restaurant Le Lion d'Or, 33460 Arcins-en-Médoc.
Tel: 05.56.58.96.79
Château de Villeneuve, 3 Rue Jean Brevet, Souzay-Champigny.
Tel: 02.41.51.14.04
www.chateau-de-villeneuve.com
Alphonse Mellot, 3 Rue Porte César, 18300 Sancerre.
Tel: 02.48.54.07.41
www.mellot.com
Well it's all right for some; but what about some recommendations on buying Margaux in the UK?!
ReplyDeleteSorry wrong blog for that Mr Flinger.
ReplyDelete