(4th August 2008)
A visit to Frantz Saumon in Husseau, Montlouis (10 r Rocheroux 37270 Montlouis sur Loire, Tel: 02 47 35 83 65, email: f.saumon@tele2.com). Like so many of the interesting producers in Montlouis, Frantz is a newcomer to the appellation. Many Loire wine estates are handed down through the generations, so Montlouis is unusual as there are a substantial number of producers here who don’t have family vines handed down to them and some have changed careers to become winemakers. Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups is the leading example of an outsider to Montlouis, although he was a négociant in Tours before he bought the domaine in 1989. Jacky and his wife, Joëlle, have become Montlouis' leading producer with vines in Vouvray as well and, since 2002, the 14-hectare Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil making exemplary reds.
Frantz Saumon’s small office at the base of the coteaux that leads up through the wine village of Husseau is full of furniture. “It all belongs to Stéphane Cossais,” explains Frantz, “he’s in the process of moving house.” Cossais is another of Montlouis’ newcomers. We taste in Frantz’s cramped limestone cave. He now has 6.5 hectares of vines and I’m impressed by his wines, in particular the Clos du Chêne 2006, which is on the premier côte above Montlouis. The vineyard has some Chenin vines that are around 90 to 100 years old. The 2006 is rich, complex with a fine mineral finish. Certainly a bottle that will age well assuming you are lucky enough to have some as Frantz has little or no stock of this left. (A more complete profile of Frantz Saumon will be available when full site is launched.)
Frantz Saumon’s small office at the base of the coteaux that leads up through the wine village of Husseau is full of furniture. “It all belongs to Stéphane Cossais,” explains Frantz, “he’s in the process of moving house.” Cossais is another of Montlouis’ newcomers. We taste in Frantz’s cramped limestone cave. He now has 6.5 hectares of vines and I’m impressed by his wines, in particular the Clos du Chêne 2006, which is on the premier côte above Montlouis. The vineyard has some Chenin vines that are around 90 to 100 years old. The 2006 is rich, complex with a fine mineral finish. Certainly a bottle that will age well assuming you are lucky enough to have some as Frantz has little or no stock of this left. (A more complete profile of Frantz Saumon will be available when full site is launched.)
Frantz Saumon
10 Rue Rocheroux 37270 Montlouis-sur-Loire Tel: 02.47.35.83.65
Jim
ReplyDeletejust drinking the 'minerale+' as I write - it's a fantastically pure, intense Chenin
Jamie. Salut! There are a remarkable number of new producers in Montlouis making very fine wines. Particularly remarkable as it is really a pretty small appellation – still the same is true in Jasnières.
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