Muscadet, le dernier grand vin de Loire ?

Fine post by Michel Smith on Les 5 du Vin extolling the virtues of Muscadet Haute Expression. This is Muscadet from low yields, specific terroirs which spends a minimum of 48 months sur lie. However, due to the appellation's rules sur lie cannot be mentioned on the labels for these wines as the rules say that all sur lies have to be bottled by 30th November following the vintage. Crazy I know but that is the legislation.

See here.

2009 Pinot Noir Rosé, Coteaux Charitois, Serge Dagueneau et Filles

2009 Rosé Les Montées de Saint Lay

Normally I should have drunk this 2009 Rosé (pure Pinot Noir) about nine months to a year ago. Fortunately this rosé from the Côtes de la Charité has withstood time well – many rosés need to be drunk within a year of being made otherwise they become tired. Serge Dagueneau's has remained fresh in colour and flavour with seductive red fruits and grenadine. Being 2009 it has a little sweetness in the finish, which I find slightly cloying after a glass or so. However, I'm well aware that this will apeal to those who find sharp acidity difficult.

The vineyards of the Côtes de la Charité lie to the east of La Charité-sur-Loire, particularly around the hamlets of Saint-Lay and Chasnay.

Saumur-Champigny three forthcoming events

2005 La Grande Tablée

Les Grandes Tablées du Saumur-Champigny:

10th anniversary

Les vignerons vont une nouvelle fois investir le centre de Saumur pour deux soirées début Août.
Gastronomie de terroir, découverte du Saumur Champigny, musique et bonne humeur sont au programme les Mercredi 3 et Jeudi 4 Août. Près de 10000 personnes sont attendues dans les rues de Saumur à partir de 19h jusqu’à la nuit.

10 ans et toujours pas l’ombre d’une ride. Touristes de passage ou Saumurois, les grandes tablées ne cessent de charmer. Les viticulteurs de Saumur Champigny arroseront leur anniversaire le 3 et 4 août prochain à Saumur. Une édition qui risque de ne pas passer inaperçu. Au programme : gastronomie, dégustation de vins, musique et ambiance festive sur les bords de Loire.

Ces dix ans des Grandes Tablées promettent d’être l’incontournable cet été en Val de Loire. Les vignerons du Saumur Champigny vont investir une nouvelle fois le centre de Saumur pour 2 soirées début août. Plusieurs milliers de personnes flâneront entre Loire et Saumur historique et 3000 personnes seront attablées chaque soir en plein cœur de la ville pour déguster le menu « terroir » confectionné de produits locaux. Le succès est tel que chaque année, les repas affichent complets 15 jours avant la date de la manifestation. Pour obtenir une place, les convives devront réservés à l’avance à l’Office de tourisme. Il faut dire que l’affaire est bonne, Pour seulement 10 euros : un verre gravé, un menu du terroir et du Saumur Champigny à discrétion comme cela se dit dans la région.

En plus de devenir le plus grand restaurant du monde durant ces deux soirées estivales, Saumur se transformera en mini festival.

Informations et réservation

Dates : Mercredi 3 et jeudi 4 août 2011 - à partir de 19h30
Attention les tickets sont datées du jours de la soirée et ne sont en aucune façon interchangeables
Tarifs : Repas + verre de dégustation 10 € - verre de dégustation seul 4 €

Réservation ouverte

Office de Tourisme du Saumurois
Place de la Bilange
B.P 241
49418 Saumur Cedex

Attention la manifestation affiche généralement complet 15 jours avant la date.
Contact: 02 41 40 20 60

More details here.

•••

Promenades biodiversité

Promenade - découverte de la biodiversité

Les vignerons de l'appellation plantent des haies au bord des parcelles de vignes pour acueillir la biodiversité. Cette promenade vous emmène à travers le vignoble pour découvrir le paysage viticole, la vigne, les plantes et les insectes bénéfiques.

18 juillet 2011 - Dampierre sur Loire

Départ 9h15 - parking à l'entrée du Camping.

Circuit de 3h00 environ - 5km.

3 août 2011 - Dampierre sur Loire

Départ 9h15 - parking à l'entrée du Camping.

Circuit de 3h00 environ - 5km.

Informations et inscriptions

Tous âges - Gratuit.

Prévoir des chaussures de marche.

Pour toutes les randonnées le nombre de places est limité à 40 personnes.

Renseignements et inscriptions auprès de Marie-Anne SIMONNEAU au 02.41.51.16.40 ou au 06.28.34.40.22.

Ces promenades sont labellisées par le Parc naturel régional Loire-Anjou-Touraine.

•••

Foulées du Saumur-Champigny: le dimanche le 11 Séptembre

A votre guise, 8 kms, 16 kms ou 35 kms de courses dans le vignoble, entre vignes et domaines viticoles.

En 2011, le Saumur-Champigny allonge la foulée !

La 10ème édition proposera donc le dimanche 11 septembre, en plus des 2 distances traditionnelles de 8 et 17 kms qui sont maintenues, un nouveau circuit en course nature de 35 kms avec un dénivelé positif d'environ 400m.

+ de distance, + d'animations et + de sites remarquables à visiter.

Les déguisements seront fortement conseillés et les inscriptions se feront de préférence en ligne !

35 kms : 18 euros - 17 kms : 13 euros - 8 kms : 11 euros

Voici le nouveau et le seul n° de téléphone à contacter désormais : 06.06.425.488

Jean-Noel Hameau
CO des foulées du saumur champigny
13 rue du pont Gallimard
49 400 St Hilaire St Florent

Laissez votre message et vos coordonnées, nous vous rappellerons dès que possible.

More details here.

Mid June 2009: some archive photos from a trip to Bué, Chavignol etc.

A palette of wine from Lucien Crochet being loaded in the centre of Bué

Some empties: Sancerre and a Champagne bottle

Part of the centre of Bué


Eau non potable (not drinking water)

Statue

Jean-Christophe Bourgeois (Henri Bourgeois, Chavignol)

Bertrand Minchin, La Tour Saint Martin – Menetou-Salon and Valençay

Jamie Goode: the coming wine war?

Jamie Goode

 

Interesting and controversial piece from Jamie Goode on his wine anorak blog which has provoked considerable discussion here:

'The coming wine war

There’s a clash of cultures in the world of fine wine, and before too long it could become a war.

On the one hand, we have the fine wine establishment, which is dominated by Bordeaux, but also includes the top Champagne houses, as well as a few others such as the super-Tuscans. This is wine as a luxury good or an investment vehicle. It’s where the money is.

On the other hand, we have the emerging terroiriste/natural wine movement. This is somewhat counterculture, and its development as a category threatens the status quo of fine wine.

As the message of authentic wine with a sense of place – made by people driven by passion rather than profit – gains traction, it is causing a degree of discomfort in the fine wine establishment.'

Coteaux de l"Aubance: some photos from 2009 harvest

Domaine de Bablut bunch of grapes concentrating


Small bunch of Chenin with morning dew

Mechanically harvesting Cabernet Franc

Château d'Avrille (Biotteau family)

Haute-Perche vineyard with high rise buildings of Angers in distance

Grand Clos 2009 Château de Villeneuve cf 2010 Cos d'Estournel

Gateway@Cos d'Estournel

Yesterday the price of the 2010 Cos d'Estournel was released and is now available en primeur from Farr Vintners@£2180 a case of 12 ex cellars, so duty and vat will be payable on them if you want to remove them from bond to drink once they are delivery in the first part of 2013. By the time vat and duty at the current rates are added the cost is £2642.06 per case.

In contrast I can buy a bottle of Jean-Pierre Chevallier's excellent 2009 Le Grand Clos Saumur Champigny Château de Villeneuve for 18€including taxes from the property in Souzay-Champigny. For the price of 12 bottles of 2010 Cos I can have 164 bottles of JP's Grand Clos. The lunatics continue to run the asylum!

Château de Villeneuve   

To be fair, of course, I could doubtless make similar comparisons between good value, well made wines in the Côtes de Bourg and elsewhere in Bordeaux.

Philippe Germain (Château de la Roulerie): a quartet of recent whites

Philippe Germain taking a sample of Anjou Blanc@La Roulerie 

 
At the end of May Philippe Germain (Château de la Roulerie in Saint-Aubin-de-Luigné) sent me samples of four of his recent whites: all Chenin Blanc – two Anjou Blancs and two Coteaux du Layon.

2010 Chenin Blanc (Anjou Blanc) 

Philippe is well aware that in a number of markets Chenin Blanc has higher value than Anjou Blanc so isn't afraid to emphasise Chenin Blanc on his 'basic' dry white cuvée. The 2010 is attractively fresh and lemony with a hint of honey in the mid-palate finishing cleanly mineral.

2010 Les Terrasses

The 2010 Les Terrasses has more weight, depth and length than the straight Anjou. Well balanced with quite marked acidity this needs a year or so to show its best. 

2010 Coteaux du Layon
 

Philippe makes two Layons: this 'basic' cuvée and Les Aunis. Once again here is a demonstration that concentrated sweetness isn't everything in sweet wines. The 2010 basic Layon makes a most attractive aperitif with its fresh citric sweetness and clean finish. This is a Layon to drink with sauced dishes – a pheasant or chicken à la normande (apple and cream) for example or with blue cheese even rich patés but certainly not with desserts. The 2009 Les Aunis is considerably richer with peach and apricot fruit, some honey but is more cloying lacking the fresh acidity you find in a 2007 or a 2010. It would, however, be a reasonable bet with a fruit tart or a fresh summer fruit dessert.   

2010 Le Gravelot: AC Touraine Chenin Blanc 4 great summer evening

Fabulous mid-summer evening in London. A glass (or two) of the easy drinking, undemanding 2010 Le Gravelot from Clos du Porteau – lemony with a light touch of honey – an ideal start to the evening. Under the reformed AC Touraine 100% Chenin will no longer be allowed – lunatics running the asylum.


The 2010 Le Gravelot is made by Isabelle de Clermont Tonnerre.

London in the setting evening light: 26th June 2011 (above and below)

Michel Smith's view of 2011 Vinexpo

Michel au boulot@Salon des Vins de Loire 2009

Super series of photos from the 2011 edition of Vinexpo by Michel here on Les 5 du Vin.

London 2005 – London 2011: the difference of six years

London skyline: September 2005

Noticeable change to London's skyline over the last six years. In 2005 the Gherkin stood alone. Not anymore and then there was no sign of the Shard.

London skyline: 26th June 2011

Now in June 2011 the skyline is much more crowded with the Shard dominant. Did someone say there was a recession on?

London behind bars

Fête de la Loire à Vélo: Montlouis

'Tout ce qui roule sans moteur sera à l'honneur à Montlouis, samedi prochain 2 juillet, c'est la Fête de la Loire à Vélo. A 10h30, départ du camping de Montlouis pour une balade animée et contée jusqu'à l'ancienne école de Husseau. Sur place, nous proposons un atelier de découverte de la viticulture biologique, avec dégustation de vins (vente sur place) et de produits Bio, présentés par Pauline Souplet, magasin Biolinet à Montlouis. Animations proposées par La Maison de la Loire et balade en calèche l'après midi. Vous pouvez apporter votre pique nique et profiter du joli jardin derrière l'école ou vous régaler des fouées qui seront préparées sur place. A vos vélos, trottinettes, rollers, calèches, tandems.... ! Merci de faire passer l'information.'

More details here. http://www.regioncentre.fr/jahia/Jahia/AccueilRegionCentre/domaines-intervention/Tourisme/Loire-a-velo/La-Loire-a-Velo-en-Fete

1855: the saga of a rogue company continues

Château Pape-Clément: clients of 1855 still awaiting their 2005s

The 1855 saga continues: here are two messages I received yesterday. Unfortunately they are not exceptional I have received many similar tales of 1855’s failure to deliver wines ordered and paid for with a delivery date continuously pushed into the future.  

Message from Client 1:

I like your blog and appreciate your support of the 1855.com victims, this company is a big fraud. (Fabien Hyon you may feel that this is a bit strong from one of your clients. I would be happy to tone this down if you could show evidence that this claim is untrue.)

I am still waiting for delivery of 14 bottles from 2005, their shipment service is also crap, they don't call in advance. The courier sent me a notice that they would like to deliver 8 of the 14 bottles, then I call the courier service and they tell me that 2 bottles have been shipped back to 1855 and that the 6 they still have will not be released, the shipment agent said that they will not deliver any 1855 wines and I can't come and pick up the wine, I asked why and they said that they have blocked the 1855 account, so it seems to me that 1855 does not pay its suppliers as well.

Message from Client 2:

Bonjour,

Je me permets de m'adresser à vous car je désespère de recevoir un jour du vin commandé (et payé) auprès de la société 1855.

Avec plus de UN AN de retard dans la livraison de ma commande Primeurs 2007, et après plusieurs coups de téléphone et email, toujours rien.

 
Au mois de février lorsque j'ai écrit un courrier eléctronique pour savoir quand je pourrais attendre la livraison on m'a répondu qu'il y avait eu des problémes et qu'ils me recontacteraient dés qu'ils avaient une date de livraison.

Au mois de mars/avril, j'ai appelé le "Service Client" (la notion de service est inexistante), et l'on m'a assuré que je serais livrée au plus tard fin mai, car l’également, ils étaient obligés de solder leurs commandes de Primeurs 2007 avant de distrbuter la livraison des primeurs 2008. Aujourd'hui j'ai encore appelé le Service Client, et on m'a informé que "ma commande n'était pas encore sur la plate-forme" et qu'il fallait "compter sur une livraison fin juillet"! Lorsque j'ai demandé parler au supérieur hiérarchique de la personne, on me transféré vers une messagerie vocale.

Comble de tout, je vois que le même vin que j'ai commandé se trouve sur leur site internet à un prix deux fois plus cher que celui auquel j'ai commandé avec une indication de livraison sous 10 jours!

Cette situation a assez duré je veux mon vin sans plus de délai.

Je crains également pour des commandes de Primeurs 2008 + 2009.......’

Jim's comment:

Unfortunately it is no surprise that the service client is ‘inexistante’. A few months ago I exchanged a number of emails with Matthieu Ortalda, chargé de relation client 1855 (1855.com). It was very soon apparent that Matthieu Ortalda had nothing but contempt for the clients of 1855, their problems and that 1855's shocking trading record had nothing to do with him as he was just doing his job.

Les Vins Contés: report on open day 7th May

Olivier Lemasson

On the afternoon of Saturday 7th may we headed across to Fougères-sur-Bièvre to the portes ouvertes held by Olivier Lemasson (Les Vins Contés), which featured a few other vignerons in addition to Olivier.

Pascal Potaire (roi des PetNats)

I started with Pascal Potaire, who we had intended to see a couple of weeks earlier when he was at an open day in Cheverny with Philippe Tessier, when our car developed a radiator problem and so forced us to creep back to Epeigné instead.

My favourite wine from Pascal was the agreeable and easy-drinking 2010 Rosé PetNat, a blend of 2/3 Côt and 1/3 Gamay. With red fruits to the fore it will make a fine summer apéro. The 2009 Orbois Menu Pineau is quite soft and weighty but mineral in the finish. Pascal makes good Menu Pineau, which are often more mineral and austere than the 2009 but this reflects the richer nature of the vintage. They age well. The 2008 Vignnason Sauvignon Blanc has some varietal character and length but I found the other two wines he was showing more interesting. 

Jérôme Lenoir

Next was Jérôme Lenoir, who with his dad – Alain, has 3.5 hectares in Beaumont-en-Véron (AC Chinon) planted on north-facing slopes. He had various vintages to taste 2001, 2003, 1989 and 1990. The 2001 and 2003 were quite light, although delicate. I preferred the more concentrated 1989 and 1990, although both also had delicacy. 

New producer: Jérémy Quastana 

The owner of Jérémy Quastana, who has two hectares in Touraine, was showing of a couple of wines from his first vintage. Firstly 2010 Buena Onda, a fun, clean, lightly sweet PetNat Rosé made from Gamay. Then a juicy, concentrated, still Gamay called L'insurgé with fair length.  

2010 L'insurge (above and below)

Olivier Lemasson has three hectares of his own vines in Monthou-sur-Bièvre and buys in grapes from a further six hectares. We started with the attractively ripe 2010 Sois Mignon made from 70 year old Sauvignon Blanc vines. Then onto the clean and precise 2010 bOis saNs sOif that is an equal blend of Menu Pineau and Romorantin, which should keep well. The funky but spicy and juicy 2010 Le P'tit Rouquin (Gamay from 20 year old vines) was the first red. 2010 Poivre et sel followed showing the typical spicy notes of a Pineau d'Aunis. R10 is a blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir, Grolleau, Pineau d'Aunis and Côt with attractive, sweet spicy fruit and good length although with slightly grainy tannins – it has 40 days of macération.

2010 Gama Sutra is all Gamay from 100 year old vines with ripe concentration and length. I finished with the fine, rich and long 2009 Cheville de Fer – Côt from vines between 20 and 50 years old. It spends a year in demi-muids (barrels normally of 500/600 litre size). This cuvée should age well.

  Marc Pesnot

The last producer was Marc Pesnot of the Domaine de la Sénéchalière in the Pays Nantais. Marc is careful to stress that although he uses Melon de Bourgogne he doesn't make Muscadet. "In 2001 I decided to take another route from Muscadet," he explains. The first wine was the 2010 La Bohême, which has some slight oxidation and sweetness. I liked the second wine much better: the 2010 Cuvée Miss Terre from old vine Melon, which has good concentration, minerality and length. Unusually Nuitage is made by treating the Melon grapes as though it was a typical Beaujolas as it has a 12-hour carbonic maceration. "To liberate the grapes' perfume," explains Marc. The 2009 has touch of white flower and is certainly very different from a traditional Muscadet. Fascinating character and wines worth exploring further, Marc is someone I need to see when I'm next in the Pays Nantais.  

Marc Pesnot

8th May 2011: further photos from Epeigné remembrance ceremony

'A toi Roger'

Placing a memorial plaque

Some more photos from the 8th May Remembrance Ceremony in Epeigné-les-Bois remembering the dead from the Two World Wars including Gilbert Daguet who was just 19 years old when he was killed on 22nd April 1918. 

Michel Mergot lighting a candle 

Family group

Remembrance

 

Speech

Gathering for return from cemetery

Marching back

Piero

Time to relax after the ceremony

Jean-Michel Prieur on traffic duty